Albania is still one of the less touristy countries in the Balkans. That’s why a trip to Tirana is worthwhile. As a traveler, you can get to know the country without having to look through the tourist lens.
Although it is a little more difficult to get around here, Albania is still incredibly affordable and authentic. The best time to travel is from May to early October.
By Dirk Pohlers, adventure traveler from Germany. I visit every place I write about & share real tips, photos, & advice from my trips.
A city in Europe that saw hardly any visitors from outside for over 50 years. But Albania is now considered one of the most exciting European travel destinations. The capital, Tirana, is a great destination if you love coffee and enjoy discovering cities off the beaten track.
Tirana is one of the cities in Europe with the most cafés. In addition to its fascinating history, there is also a beautiful city center to discover. Here are a few places you shouldn’t miss during your city trip:
Tirana, with a population of around 550,000, is located between the beaches of the Adriatic coast and the hiking trails of the so-called “Accursed Mountains”, a part of the western Balkans that extends towards Kosovo. What is most fascinating about the city is the wild mixture of communist heritage, an impressive slow-food movement, old Balkan traditions and urban lifestyle.
Once upon a time, Blloku was completely cut off from the rest of Tirana and only the country’s elite had access to the neighborhood. During the socialist era, dictator Enver Hoxha lived here. Today, the world looks very different here and Blloku is the trendy district of Tirana, where the rich and beautiful – and those who think they are – cavort.
The neighborhood is particularly worth visiting in the evening to enjoy a cocktail in one of the many bars or to go shopping in the fancy boutiques. If you want to see how Hoxha used to live, you can also take a look at his old villa here – but only from the outside.
If you come to Tirana, you have to drink raki. For Albanians, the schnapps is sacred and Komiteti is something like the Vatican of raki. A Vatican with old televisions on the walls, huge shelves and black and white photos that tell the story of Albania.
There are over 50 types of raki here, ranging in flavor from sweet to strong, from honey-cinnamon to spicy anise. The café has come up with a solution for those who find it difficult to choose from such a wide selection: simply order an entire board with eight different types.
From 1944 to 1991, a socialist dictatorship ruled in Albania. Until his death in 1985, the leader Enver Hoxha ruled with an iron hand and had anyone arrested, tortured and killed who posed a potential threat to him. In his paranoia, Hoxha ordered the construction of countless bunkers, of which almost 200,000 can still be found throughout the country today. One particularly large bunker has been converted into a museum. At Bunk’Art 2, you can learn more about this dark period in Albanian history.
You will immediately notice the pyramid in the centre of Tirana: once intended as a museum and a tribute to the late Enver Hoxha, it has been used for many purposes since his fall, including as a conference centre. What will happen to it in the future is still being planned. Until then, the pyramid remains one of the most striking buildings and attractions in Tirana.
In, on and next to the pyramid, there are 34 colorful “boxes” that serve as rooms for workshops and tenants (start-ups, gastronomy). A large part of the building is dedicated to the “TUMO Tirana” further education project. It offers free further education courses for teenagers in new technologies such as programming, robotics, music, graphic animation and film.
Of course, culture is a must – even on vacation. In the Historical National Museum in Tirana, you will find exhibits from ancient times, the Middle Ages and the period of Albanian independence in 1912. If you really want to understand Albania, you should not miss a visit. Even if you don’t want to go inside, you should at least admire the mosaic at the entrance to the museum. It is around eleven meters high and 40 meters long and depicts 13 people from Albanian history.
Skanderbeg Square is the heart of Tirana. Here, children play football, street musicians perform, and pensioners meet to chat. In the evening, when the temperatures are no longer quite so hot and all the buildings are illuminated, the square looks particularly idyllic. Take some time to watch the world go by and strike up a conversation with the locals. If you want to feel like a kid again, just take a ride on the carousel.
The largest park in the city is located in the south of Tirana, with a man-made lake at its center. There are beautiful spots all around for picnics, as well as bike rentals and popcorn vendors. On weekends, the lake is a place of pilgrimage for city dwellers longing for a bit of nature. A walk around the lake takes one to two hours and is a welcome change from the hustle and bustle of the city.
Tirana is a city in transition. Entire neighborhoods, particularly in the city center, are currently being renovated. The area around the Pazari i Ri market was also completely redeveloped a few years ago. Now you can buy spices, tobacco or souvenirs in a relaxed atmosphere. If you like it a bit more bustling, you will find a street market on Rruga Isuf Beshiri in the north of the city where you can find everything from car parts to hardware store accessories.
Hidden behind the National Art Gallery in Tirana are two large bronze statues of Stalin and one of Lenin, as well as a stone bust of Enver Hoxha. Here you can see how difficult it is for Albania to come to terms with the socialist era. The images of the dictators, who killed several thousand people, are not destroyed or exhibited in a museum, but hidden in a backyard. The statues look like they have been briefly parked and forgotten – a bizarre scene.
If you are free from giddiness and not afraid of great heights, you should take the cable car up to Dajti, Tiranas local mountain. Once at the top, you can immerse yourself in nature and go hiking. But the ride is also worthwhile just to enjoy the unique view of the city. Right next to the cable car station, there is a restaurant with a panoramic view and the opportunity to play a round of mini golf.