Albanian Alps & Prokletije – Hiking the Balkan Mountains

Hiking › Albanian Alps & Prokletije – Hiking the Balkan Mountains

200 km of hiking trails, untouched nature, traditional villages and stunning national parks: all this can be found in the Albanian Alps (also known as Prokletije). Let me take you on an alpine journey in the west of the Balkan Peninsula.

Prokletije is certainly one of the last mountains in Europe that has not yet been fully discovered, one of the most secluded and romantic places in Europe.

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Albanian Alps & Prokletije

“All the mountains on one side, Prokletije on the other.”

Serbian Proverb

This may be exaggerating a little, but there is definitely some truth in the quotes. The journey from central Europe to these “other” mountains follows the Croatian Adriatic coast southleading to this beautiful mountain ranges that belong to the Dinarides or Dinaric Alps. These extend over large parts of the western Balkans and reach their south-eastern end at the border between Montenegro and Albania.

What are those names and what do they mean?

The highest and wildest Dinarides mountains are also located at this end, and are known by various names. In Montenegro, the Serbo-Croatian name “Prokletije” is used, while in Albania the area is called “Bjeshkët e Nemuna”. Both mean “acccursed mountains”, which refers to the harsh living conditions of the people who live in the area. The most common name for the Albanian part of the mountain range is the “Albanian Alps” (Alpet Shqiptare).

Albanian Alps

There are other regional names, such as “Dukagjin” for the many smaller mountain ranges and subgroups. To avoid causing more confusion than necessary, I will write about the Albanian Alps when referring to the Albanian part, and otherwise follow the example of many foreign visitors who summarise the mountains of both countries as Prokletije.

What makes these mountains so special?

The similarity to some of the limestone massifs in the Alps is undeniable, but on closer inspection, Prokletije shows some differences due to its more southerly and remote location and different geology.

There are still no mountain huts located well above the valleys, and instead there are still large areas of real wilderness where large mammals such as bears, wolves and lynx find plenty of habitat.

The untouched nature makes the steepness and size of the Prokletije mountains appear particularly impressive. Although they do not reach extreme heights (the highest mountain is Jezerca at 2694 metres), the valleys are deeply incised thanks to the ice age glaciers and the differences in height to the summits are great.

Places of interest

There are no large towns in the Albanian Alps. However, there are a few villages that you should not miss out on, not least because you will find cosy guesthouses and small hotels there where you can stay between hikes.

Theth

The village of Theth, which can look back on a long history, is located in the western part of the Albanian Alps. Traces of settlements from the Palaeolithic Age have been found in this area. There are fewer than 100 people living in Theth itself, and they mainly focus on providing hospitality and accommodation for guests and holidaymakers.

The location of the village makes it an ideal starting point for hikes. Four mountains, each at least 2,000 metres high, surround the village, including Jezerca, the highest mountain in Albania. Like many settlements in the area, Theth is a so-called scattered settlement. This means that the houses along the valley are sometimes far apart. The actual centre of the village is where the bridge is.

Valbona

The Albanian village of Valbona is only about a day’s trip from Theth. Valbona is also a scattered settlement, so the focus is also on the unique natural surroundings. Here you can expect lush alpine pastures, mountain lakes and a wide range of hiking opportunities. The proximity to the village of Theth, among other things, can be used for a beautiful hike from Theth to Valbona.

Vermosh

A little further north and at a significantly higher altitude (1,100 metres) than Valbona lies Vermosh, the northernmost village in Albania. This place is particularly charming because it is very secluded, being accessible only via two mountain passes. The local people take loving care of their guests. Since the inhabitants live almost exclusively from agriculture, you can look forward to delicious local specialities here.

Plav

The village of Plav, with a population of around 3,700, is located on the Montenegrin side of the Albanian Alps. It lies at an altitude of 945 metres and is surrounded by dense greenery and impressive natural beauty.

Plav is situated directly on the lake of the same name, where a bathing jetty provides access. From here, you have a fantastic view of the surrounding mountains and can either sunbathe or take a refreshing dip. Plav is also a great starting point for hikes in Prokletije, as the Peaks of the Balkans hiking trail also passes through here.

What places to visit in the Albanian Alps?

The Albanian Alps also have two main tourist valleys: the Theth Valley and the Valbona Valley. Due to the complex mountain topography, the two main towns of Theth and Valbonë are each several hours’ journey away, although as the crow flies they are barely 50 kilometres from Shkoder. This city at the southwestern foot of the mountains is the central starting point, with its many accommodation options, tour operators and supply facilities.

Theth Village

The landscape of the Albanian Alps is varied and attractive, even away from the two “main valleys”. Further north, at the border with the country, other long and deep valleys branch off from Lake Skadar into the mountains. They are hardly known, but are all the more impressive with their dry Mediterranean landscapes. The huge rock masses and gorges would make a great backdrop for any western. Perhaps it is because of their somewhat rough and hard aura that they only serve as a transit zone, which has hardly any tourist development apart from the well-developed through roads.

Two breathtaking vantage points in this area are the Albanian mountain pass Hani e Hotit and the rocky balcony Grlo Sokolovo, which can be reached from the Montenegrin capital Podgorica in one to two hours by car and on foot.

Komani Lake

The Albanian Alps become so labyrinthine and rugged towards the south that it is really difficult to find your way around. The southern edge of this inaccessible landscape is formed by the fjord-like Koman reservoir, which dams the Drini river to form a lake with many branches, between many high rocky reefs and peaks.

On the reservoir, car ferries cover part of the main route from Shkoder to Valbona in just under three hours. The alternative route without a ferry does not save any time, as it leads in a large arc over very bad and winding mountain roads.

Shala River

In addition to the ferry, excursion boats also operate on Lake Koman, mainly heading for Shala River Beach.

This white pebble beach on the cool mountain river is located at the end of a dramatically beautiful side arm. It is currently developing from a secluded natural gem into a mix of fairground and Bacardi advertising.

Hiking Routes

The many beautiful places correspond to many possible hiking routes. However, it should be noted that many of the “paths” marked on maps are only traces of old shepherd and trade routes that have only recently been preserved and marked for tourist use, if at all.

Theth Valbona Hike

The Valbona Pass (1795 m) from Theth or Valbona and the Pejes Pass (Qafa e Pejës, 1710 m) from Theth are recommended as introductory and overview tours with an “alpine standard”. Thanks to detailed descriptions in the popular hiking apps and good signposting, they are also suitable for less experienced hikers and those new to the area.

• Duration: 3-4 Days including transfers from Shkoder and overnights
• Distance: 20 km hiking Theth to Valbona

Peaks of the Balkans trail

For those looking for a weeklong experience in the area, there is the Peaks of the Balkans trail, 192km route stretching across 3 countries – Albania, Montenegro and Kosovo. A unique outdoor adventure as well as an unforgettable cultural experience.

• Duration: 5-10 Days
• Distance: up to 192km

An area where ancient trails connect remote regions. The epic hike passes through villages separated by strict borders and fortified with bunkers built over two generations during communist rule in Yugoslavia and Albania. It winds across meadows, mountain peaks, lakes and forests and is one of the most varied hiking trails in the world. The views and paths change from rocky paths and bare peaks to flower and plant-rich meadows where nature has been left to its own devices.

If you have little hiking and mountaineering experience but still have big ambitions, you should join local guides or organised groups. Travelling through the depths of the Prokletije on your own means that you are really on your own. It is still a remote border area with mostly impassable terrain, no network coverage, rapidly changing weather and little water, as most of it seeps away into the karst.

Since only the main routes are clearly and correctly marked, a GPS device with a sufficiently charged battery and carefully planned tracks is essential. Long tours involve overnight stays in tents or bivouacs, where you are in the habitat of bears and wolves. It is therefore not a bad idea to take precautions such as packing food in odour-proof packaging.

Help in case of problems is a matter of luck; organised mountain rescue does exist, but it is nowhere near as well structured or as well equipped as in the Alps.

This is not intended to cause anxiety, but rather to make it clear that long tours in the Prokletije are automatically also demanding tours, where you should always be aware of “points of no return” and avoid irreversible steps that you might risk taking in the Alps.

Via Dinarica

Another hiking option is to complete a stage of the Via Dinarica. This long-distance hiking trail, which is 2,000 kilometers long in total, leads across the entire Balkan Peninsula, including through the Albanian Alps and over the Jezerca. The stage that you can walk starts in Theth and leads all the way into Kosovo. So you can walk parts of a long hiking route during your visit to Prokletije.

Climbing Jezerca Peak

One of two mountains that we recommend for climbing here is the highest mountain in Albania, Jezerca. At 2,694 m, it towers imposingly over the rest of the mountain range, making it a popular spot for adventurers. Jezerca consists mainly of limestone and offers hardly any fertile ground, so you will see little to no vegetation here. The rocky giant is therefore more suitable for experienced mountaineers. As Jezerca is close to the Montenegrin border, you can either start from there or from the villages of Theth or Valbona.

Short Tours

If you are short on time or prefer short tours, you will find more in Theth than in Valbona or the Montenegrin valley villages, where the viewpoints and natural beauty spots are further away.
The following short and rewarding tours are available here:

Visting the village church of Theth

The church is a much-visited yet beautiful place with great views of the valley and its spectacular mountain setting. From the tourist centre, it is about a 15-minute walk downstream to the old village centre with the church.

Grunas Waterfall

The waterfall, which is about 20 metres high, is a real treat with a beautiful view of the Theth valley. In summer, it is a popular spot for sunbathers and swimmers. It can be reached in a good hour’s walk from Theth or in a good half-hour’s walk from the road towards Ndërlysaj.

• Starting Points: Trailhead near the Reconcilliation Tower.
• Parking: You can park you car in Theth village.
• Hike Distance: 4 km round trip.
• Elevation Gain: Approximately 250 meters.
• Difficulty Level: Easy.
• Duration: Approximately 1.5 to 2 hours, depending on pace and breaks.

Blue Eye Theth

The hike to the “Blue Eye”, a deep blue mountain spring surrounded by waterfalls hidden in lush forest nature, takes only a little longer. Its sight tempts you to jump in, but after dipping your hand in, most people leave it at that. A description of the route with photos can be found on Wikiloc.

• Starting Points: Trailhead Theth center.
• Parking: You can park you car in Theth village.
• Hike Distance: 20 km round trip.
• Elevation Gain: Approximately 750 meters.
• Difficulty Level: Moderate.
• Duration: Approximately 5 to 6 hours, depending on pace and breaks.

Alternatively you can also drive to the village of Ndërlysaj and park you car there to cut the hike short. The hike from Ndërlysaj takes about 1.5hrs to 2hrs without break at the spring.

Travel Information

A trip to the Albanian Alps is possible in many different ways. I will summarize here everything you need to know for your vacation in Albania.

Best time to travel

Because the region is hardly developed, it is particularly worth traveling in summer. This is because some villages are even empty in winter, as the poor infrastructure means that no supplies can be guaranteed. The best months to visit the Albanian Alps are therefore June to September/October. This is when the weather is at its mildest and when most accommodation is open.

Getting There

The most common point to start your journey to Prokletije is Shkoder. From here you can drive to Theth in three hours or take a ferry to Valbona. If you want to travel by plane, you essentially have two airports to choose from:

• The first is Tirana Airport, which is served by direct flights from many European cities. From there it is about a two-hour drive to Shkoder.
• The other airport is in Montenegro, in the city of Podgorica. There are far fewer direct flights to this airport, but even with just one additional transfer you can get here quite quickly. From Podgorica, the journey to Shkoder takes about an hour.

There are some paved roads in the mountains, but most people travel on foot. If you don’t want to explore the Albanian Alps on your own, it’s well worth booking a guided tour – then you’ll sometimes be taken to your next destination in comfort by shuttle.

Hotels & Guest Houses

You can always find accommodation in the Albanian Alps in the villages and towns, which are usually idyllically situated in valleys and along rivers. The hotels and guesthouses are often run by locals, giving you a direct insight into the culture and life of the local people.

Camping

The entire Montenegrin part of the Prokletije has been a national park since 2009, where an entrance fee of €10 and a daily stay fee of €5 is charged (as of summer 2024). Wild camping is officially not allowed, but tolerated if you pitch your tent far enough above the valleys.

On the Albanian side, the entire core mountain range is also declared a national park (NP Valbonatal and NP Theth). However, the regulations are hardly monitored and implemented here. This has advantages such as free access and freedom of movement, but should not be misunderstood as an invitation to behave in an environmentally harmful manner.

Peaks

Even for local experts, it would be difficult to choose from among the many worthwhile and particularly beautiful places. Here is a rather arbitrary and definitely incomplete attempt by a (not really) local expert:

JEZERCA PEAK (2694 M)

As the highest mountain in the Prokletije and in Albania, this mighty pyramid is a popular destination for fit alpine hikers. The summit can be reached from the Albanian Valbona Valley in a challenging, 10-hour day trip.

KARANFILI MASSIF

These unique, simultaneously massive and delicate rock towers shoot up to 1000 metres between the Grebaje and Ropojana valleys. The easiest way to admire their splendour is to drive into the Grebaje valley, where they can be seen from the valley floor. From the national park entrance, you then hike into the small side valley of Valušnica and, depending on your time and inclination, up to the peak of the same name at 1879 metres (photos and GPX track for download for logged-in users on Wikiloc). There you can see the “classic” Karanfili panorama, one of the top motifs of the Prokletije and the whole Balkans.

HARAPIT/ ARAPI (2218 M)

This large and steep rocky peak is clearly visible from Theth and is therefore one of the most famous peaks in the Prokletije. A day hike from Theth allows you to admire the mountain from close up and from several different angles. The summit is reserved for experienced climbers.

MAJA E THATË (2406 M)

The guardian of the Valbona Valley is not one of the highest mountains, but it is extremely impressive with its steepness, power and exposed position directly above Valbona. Without climbing equipment, its summit is only accessible to seasoned mountaineers.

HOLLOW DOOR/KISSING CATS

If you walk into the picturesque Grebaje valley, you will see a rock gate on the left-hand side at the top of the ridge that looks like two cats kissing – exactly like that. A curious sight.

Even more curious is the sight of small, squat bunkers in the mountains. They were intended to protect against enemy attacks, which mainly existed in the imagination of the Albanian autocratic ruler Enver Hoxha. Several examples can be found on the hiking route from Theth over the Pejes Pass towards the border and Vusanje.

The first appear after just under an hour’s walk on the side of the braided stream bed. The next ones only appear after the steep ascent of the pass, but they are set in a truly dreamlike mountain landscape.

History of the Region

The uniqueness of the Prokletije region also results from its eventful history. This part of the Balkans has always been a point of contact and a melting pot for different cultures from the Occident and the Orient. Occasionally, it has also been a focal point where irreconcilable interests have clashed.

Important trade routes passed through the region in ancient times. In the 2nd century BC, Rome rose to become the strongest power, building roads and bridges and promoting trade. After the fall of Rome, the Slavs, Byzantines and Serbs gained the upper hand. In the 15th century, the Ottomans, who originated from what is now Turkey, incorporated the area into their vast empire. They ruled until 1912.

During the world wars, the area was divided between the now independent Albania, the Kingdom of Yugoslavia and Italy. After the Second World War, it was part of Albania and part of the Republic of Yugoslavia. After the collapse of Yugoslavia in 1991, the eastern edge of the Prokletije was assigned to Kosovo.

The changing borders were usually drawn in faraway capitals, over the heads of the local inhabitants. This often cut off trade routes and family ties.

Throughout the entire communist era, Prokletije was a military no-go area, criss-crossed by the heavily guarded border between the completely isolated Albania of dictator Hoxha and the equally paranoid Yugoslavia of dictator Tito. Apart from local shepherds, no civilians were allowed to enter the area. A few mountaineers with special permits had the privilege of entering the massif from the Yugoslav (Montenegrin) side. Mountaineering as a privilege for strictly selected athletes was not only the usual practice here, but in all socialist countries.

It was not until 2005 that the situation relaxed enough for the border restrictions to be lifted and the first mountaineers from Western Europe to discover the Prokletije. Tourist facilities developed in the valleys, while up in the mountains there are still few signs of human presence. Exceptions are the main hiking trails such as the Peaks of the Balkans Trail and some former military posts that serve as temporary shelters for shepherds.