By Dirk Pohlers, adventure traveler from Germany. I visit every place I write about & share real tips, photos, & advice from my trips.
Immerse yourself in the fascinating history and rich culture of this enchanting Albanian town, located in the north-western part of Albania, close to the Montenegrin border. Shkoder, also known as Shkodra, is an important cultural hotspot in the country and offers you a variety of historical & cultural sights and scenic attractions.
The city is surrounded by three rivers: the Drini, the Buna and the Kiri, which not only provide it with a breathtaking backdrop, but have also been a rich source of life and trade. Here you will find a delightful blend of ancient traditions and modern life that make Shkoder a unique destination.
The history of Shkoder goes back a long way and is closely linked to Rozafa Castle, which sits majestically on a rocky hill west of the city. According to the historian Tit Livi, it was “the strongest area of the Labeats” (Illyrian tribe).
Like all ancient buildings, the castle is also linked to a popular local legend. Rozafa was the name of the bride of the youngest of the three brothers who originally built the castle. The three men worked tirelessly during the day to lay mortar and stones, but the walls kept collapsing overnight.
Throughout history, Shkoder has been occupied several times by different cultures and peoples, including the Romans (168 BC), the Serbs (1040), the Venetians (1396) and finally the Ottomans (1479). This rich historical past has shaped the city and left it with a unique cultural heritage. The people of Shkoder are proud of their city and the many artists, musicians, painters, photographers, poets and writers who were born here and draw their inspiration from this diverse environment.
When you visit Shkoder, be sure to visit Rozafa Castle, whose imposing walls and towers tell a fascinating story. But don’t forget to explore the other sights of the city, such as the various museums, the lively centre and the hiking destinations in the surrounding area.
Literally one of the biggest attractions and best things to do in Shkoder is Rozafa Castle, which rises on a rocky hill and towers majestically over the city. You can even see the castle during a bike tour from Lake Skodra (set link), which makes it an ideal stopover. The castle is particularly impressive at sunset, when the light conditions are perfect and you can enjoy a breathtaking view over the landscape – from the flat plains in the south of Albania to the majestic mountains in the east.
The grounds of the fortress are huge and expansive and you have the freedom to explore it as you please. As well as a huge Albanian flag waving proudly in the wind, there are numerous other opportunities for selfies from the fortress walls, where you can move around freely.
As there is unfortunately very little printed information, you can let your imagination run wild. I personally found it nice though to explore the ruins on my own.
It’s definitely an experience you shouldn’t miss out on while you’re exploring Shkoder.
Ebu Bekr (Albanian: Xhamia Ebu Bekër or Xhamia e Ebu Bekërit), the main mosque of Shkoder, is named after the Ottoman statesman Ebubekir Pasha, who lived from 1670 to 1758. In its heyday, the mosque had a prestigious madrasa, a religious school that attracted Muslim scholars from all over the region.
After the Rozafa Fortress, the mosque is the most important landmark in Shkoder, and its tall minarets are a useful landmark in the city. Despite its Ottoman origins, Ebu Bekr was renovated after the fall of communism in Albania and given a modern look.
The mosque known as the “Lead Mosque” or “Xhamia e Plumbit” is a rare remnant from Ottoman Shkoder. The mosque is located in the plain of the Drin River, not far from the river itself, and has been repeatedly damaged by floods over the centuries. It is located in the Bahçallek neighbourhood, at the foot of the large rocky outcrop on which the fortress of Shkoder, better known as Rozafa Castle, was built. The mosque was built in 1773/4 on the orders of Mehmet Pasha Bushati.
In the second half of the 18th century, the territory of present-day Albania was more or less divided into two large pashaliks (administrative areas) of the Ottoman Empire. Thanks in part to the remoteness of this westernmost part of the empire, Istanbul’s power was reduced and Mehmet Pasha in the north and Ali Pasha of Tepelene in the south were able to expand the territories assigned to them and become increasingly autonomous.
The Lead Mosque was the first mosque to be reopened in Albania: On 16 November 1990, after 23 years of state atheism, a religious rally was held there by Hafiz Sabri Koçi. One story says that Mehmet Pasha not only supervised the construction, but even worked on it to show his piety. It is said that a villager came to the building site to find the Pasha.
The Historical Museum is also known as the Oso Kuka Museum and is located in the centre of Shkoder. The building, which has been a historical museum since 1947, was originally the house of a former Venetian merchant and later became the residence of Oso Kuka. The building is surrounded by fortified walls and is a typical Venetian merchant’s house.
Oso Kuka was an Albanian border guard on the frontier between the Ottoman and Montenegrin empires. When he was surrounded by Montenegrin troops in a tower on the island of Vranjina, he blew it up, destroying himself and many of the Montenegrin soldiers. In the decades that followed, he became a symbolic figure of the Albanian independence movement.
The Historical Museum houses artefacts of cultural significance and is itself historical. Exhibits include the typically ornate guest rooms and a basement with a small archaeological exhibition featuring an early Christian Table of David and artefacts from the Byzantine era, the Ottoman period through to Enver Hoxha’s oppressive regime. In the garden you will also find a Roman tomb and a Venetian stone fountain. The entrance fee is 150 Lek (~1.5 EUR).
The old town centre of Shkoder is beautiful. These two streets form the lively centre of the city centre. On my first visit, the pedestrianised Rroga Kole Idromeno felt like a breath of fresh air after my brief but hectic first impressions of Tirana.
Here you will find many cafés and bars with outdoor seating. There is always a lot going on here, especially in the evening, and Shkoder comes to life.
The Italian Pietro Marubbi came to Albania in the second half of the 19th century. After travelling through the country from south to north, he moved to Shkoder. At that time, the city flourished and became an important centre thanks to economic and cultural exchange. Perhaps it was the atmosphere in the city that encouraged him to take up the art of photography and open his first studio.
As Pietro and his wife were unable to have children, his first assistants were the sons of his gardener Rrok Kodheli from the Zadrima area, who later continued the art of photography. His two sons, Mati Kodheli, who died very young, and his younger brother Kel Kodheli, went to Trieste to the “Sebastianutti & Benque” studio to learn the mastery and secrets of photography.
Kel followed the path of his master Pietro in the same field and inherited the studio and also his surname. The studio was continued by his son Gegë Kodheli (Marubi), who attended photography courses for several years and later the Lumière brothers’ school of cinematography and photography in France. What we can observe in the three generations of photographers is their desire to be contemporary and to adapt to the time and context in socio-aesthetic and technical terms.
The Marubi studio maintained its originality for over a century, but in the early 1950s it was absorbed into communist anonymity and joined forces with other photographers in a co-operative. At a time when all private activities were banned, it was impossible for the last of the Marubi to utilise, promote and preserve the work he and his predecessor had done.
In 1970, Gegē Marubi donated the family archive to the state. The new Phototeque Marubi, a department of the City Museum managed by the Municipality of Shkoder, was founded from an archive of almost half a million glass negatives. Since 2003, the archive has been under the direct supervision of the Ministry of Culture. On 9 May 2016, the Marubi National Museum of Photography was opened with the Marubi Phototeque collection.
Just outside the old town, on the way to Mesi Bridge is a Venetian mask factory and museum. Not at all surprising if you remember that Shkoder was once under Venetian rule. Here you can watch masks being made and also admire and buy masks in the small shop.
The factory offers more than 1700 distinct models and produces more than thirty thousand masks annually. In the process of its making, each mask goes through the hands of 12 or 13 professionals. Initially, the clay is molded and worked with mud. Afterward, it is placed on papier-mâché.
Given its location close to the Albanian Alps and near a number of rivers, there are some incredibly beautiful spots to visit around Shkoder. A place you should definitely visit: the magnificent
This Ottoman bridge, built in 1770, is a true jewel of history and nature and the largest bridge from this period still preserved in Albania. It is located just 5 kilometres north-east of Shkoder and is best reached by bike. When you visit the bridge, you will be enchanted by its beauty and historical flair. Its elegant thirteen arches stretch majestically over a length of 108 metres across the River Kir and offer a breathtaking sight.
The history of this bridge is as fascinating as its architecture of round smooth rocks and stone slabs. It was built to connect the people of Shkoder with those of Drishti and Cukali and has always symbolised the unity and connection of the communities. With its robust construction, the Mesi Bridge is not only an architectural masterpiece, but also a symbol of humanity and its endeavours towards unity.
When you visit the bridge, you can not only admire its beauty, but also go for a swim in the river and explore the surrounding nature. Especially in the spring and summer months, the area around the bridge is a popular destination for cycling tours and excursions.
The Ura e Mesit is not only a place of beauty, but also a place of history and community. Its significance extends far beyond the borders of Shkoder, making it an unmissable destination for anyone wishing to discover the fascinating culture and history of Albania.
If you visit this enchanting town in the north-western part of Albania, there is one absolute must-go that you should not miss: Lake Shkoder, also known as Lake Skutari. This lake is not only the largest lake in the Balkans, but also an important source of biodiversity in the region and also gave the town its name.
Lake Shkoder is easy to reach by bike from the city, and the well-developed road along the south-western shore leads all the way to the border with Montenegro. A bike trip to the lake is not only a great way to enjoy the beautiful scenery, but also an opportunity to get to know the local culture. On the way to the village of Shiroka on the shores of the lake, you will discover several small restaurants and bars serving delicious seafood and drinks. It’s the perfect place to relax and enjoy a unique landscape.
And if you’ve had enough of cycling, why not take a kayak tour on the lake? There are several small hire centres on the shores of the lake where you can rent kayaks. It’s a great way to experience the tranquillity of the lake that is also a bird paradise.
The rare Whiskered Tern is breeding there amongst other rare species. The nesting place can only be accessed by boat and with a proffesional guide due to the restriction as a protected zone. Experience the natural beauty and diversity that this region, it will be an unforgettable adventure that will stay with you long after you return.
A day trip south-east of the city takes you to Lake Vau-Dejes, which was created when the River Drin was dammed. In summer, you can take a boat to Shurdhah Island, which is almost 400 metres long and densely overgrown.
Climb ashore and experience a little adventure by discovering the last remains of the ancient city of Sarda. This was an Illyrian settlement and later a Roman citadel. In the Middle Ages, the city was famous for its 365 altars and as the seat of the bishops of Sarda and Sapa. Eventually the city was destroyed by the Ottomans and when the dam was completed, the ruins formed an island on the left bank of the Drin.
Take the Koman ferry to Valbona: The main reason to visit Shkoder is, of course, to take the Koman ferry to Valbone. Just over an hour east of Shkodër, a special experience awaits you that you will never forget. A trip on the ferry across Lake Koman provides you with plenty of material for a true travel story. It is a passenger ship that connects Koman with the town of Fierze.
The special thing about it, however, is that you can experience the film-like landscape around the lake and get in touch with the locals. The ferry regularly docks on the shore and picks up farmers and livestock. At times, the boat can seem alarmingly overloaded as you travel through a mountainous landscape that slopes steeply down to the water.
Theth as a day trip: Thanks to its relative proximity, it’s also possible to visit Theth as a day trip from Shkoder or even drive there and back overnight. In my opinion, the multi-day return journey via the Koman ferry and the hike from the Valbone valley is definitely worth it.
Theth (or Thethi in Albanian) is probably the most beautiful place in Albania. After living in Albania for a while and exploring almost the whole country, I finally arrived in Theth and wow, it took my breath away. As always when I write about Albania, I want to not only tell you my stories but also give you an insight into the practical steps to visit Theth, but most importantly, how to get from Shkoder to Theth in the first place!
Note: Theth is very remote and there is no ATM to be found in the village of Theth or in Valbona. Take enough cash with you for the duration of your stay.
By minibus to Theth: The most popular way to get to Theth is from Shkoder, a town in the north of Albania, which is also very beautiful! You should definitely spend a few nights in Shkoder if you can. There is a bus that leaves from Shkoder in the morning and costs around €12 per person. The journey to Theth takes about 3 hours. The road from Shkoder to Theth is very bumpy, so if you get sick quickly in the car, you should take tablets beforehand. The first part of the route is tarmac, the rest is a gravel road.
Rana e Hedhun beach is another interesting attraction because of its massive sand dunes right next to the sea. The place is often not very corwaded and offers a fantastic getaway from the city life.
The wide sandy beach is particularly popular with families as the water is very shallow. Shëngjin is a very popular sandy beach in the north of Albania. The town of Shëngjin with its numerous hotels, restaurants and beach bars is located directly on the beach.
InTown Guesthouse Shkoder: Very central but quietly located guesthouse on the Rruga Lole Idromeno. The owners are very dedicated hosts. There is a car park in front of the door. Spacious rooms, beautiful garden, lovingly restored historic house. Very good value for money. ☑ Check availability and prices here.
Çoçja Boutique Hotel: The Çoçja is one of the best hotels in Shkodra and my personal favourite, located near the “Pedonale” – a pedestrian zone where there are many bars, cafés, boutiques and restaurants to discover. The boutique hotel with free private parking is located in a lovingly restored historic building with a wonderful, quiet inner courtyard. The rooms are tastefully furnished and have air conditioning, a TV, minibar, safe and desk. ☑ Check availability and prices here.
La Maison du Croissant: Start your day in Shkoder with a very good coffee and a croissant. Pepe, the chef, spent years learning his trade in France, worked in Germany in between and will also sweeten your morning with his specialities. Don’t come too late, if everything is sold by lunchtime, there will still be coffee, but no more croissants….
Rozafa Sea Food: In my opinion, this is definitely the best restaurant in Shkoder. It was certainly the best food we ate on our trip to the Balkans last year. On my first visit to Shkoder I practically had the place to myself, but on our last visit the place was packed – and for good reason. The seafood there is incredible. We both went all out and ordered seafood risotto (perfect with garlic), grilled prawns, salad, fried calamari and 4 glasses of wine – all for just €25! And we couldn’t believe how delicious it was. The restaurant is kept very cool (there’s also a fresh fish counter), so you might get a little chilly. Rozafa Sea Food on GoogleMaps.
Fisi Restaurant: You can also find great grilled dishes in Shkoder at Fisi Restuarant (formerly Peja Grill). The dishes there cost between three and ten euros. Here you will find vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free dishes.
Puri: In my experience, you can dine particularly authentically and cheaply at Puri in Shkoder. Here, too, you can enjoy traditional dishes at a reasonable price. Here you can also start the day with breakfast first thing in the morning.
Also not to be missed: Byrek! There is a large selection of byrek, a type of sandwich made from phyllo dough, on every corner of the city. It is one of the best dishes you can eat in Albania and throughout the Balkans. The bakeries sell byrek filled with spinach, meat or cheese. All three are worth a bite.
The beautiful Mrizi i Zanave Agroturizëm Resort is located in the farming village of Fishtë in a quiet corner of north-west Albania. Mrizi i Zanave is probably the country’s most famous gastronomic attraction and the epitome of Albanian slow food. It’s part resort, part restaurant, part farm, part winery, part production facility and serves some of the most delicious food I’ve ever savoured in the Balkans. In other words, there’s a reason why Mrizi i Zanave is the ultimate agritourism experience in Albania.
Set in a lush mountain valley among sprawling fruit and vegetable fields, humble farms and modern production facilities, the motto of this stunning resort is ‘think global, eat local’. That’s the perfect way to describe this place.
By car, Mrizi i Zanave is 40min or 30km from Shkoder. Tip: If you are travelling back from there, take the route via Hajmel, east of the main road and you will take a beautiful path along villages and hills back to Shkoder.
Mrizi i Zanave really is the ultimate agritourism resort in Albania, and it starts and ends with the delicious Albanian slow food.
In the months of May, September and October, you are most likely to experience good weather with pleasant average temperatures between 20 degrees Celsius and 26 degrees Celsius.
Shkodër is generally safe for solo female travellers, even at night, especially in well-lit and populated areas. Violent crime is not common, but as in any city, it is always best to be cautious. Avoid secluded areas, keep your belongings safe and be aware of your surroundings at all times.
Buses to Shkoder depart every 30 minutes from 6:30 to 17:00 from the North/South bus stations in Tirana. Shkoder is located about 100 kilometres north of Tirana. The journey takes around 2 hours and bus tickets should only cost €5 for a one-way journey.
There are up to 9 bus departures between Podgorica, Montenegro and Shkoder, Albania. The earliest bus departing from Podgorica is at 08:00, arriving in Shkoder at 09:35 on the same day. While the latest bus departure is at 16:00 and arrives at 18:30 on the same day. Prices for a single ticket for adults range from €10 to €12.