Voskopoje Albania – Things To Do & See

Korca › Voskopoje Albania – Things To Do & See

Voskopoje is located about 20 kilometres northwest of Korça at an altitude of 1200 metres. Driving there by car takes about 30 minutes, so it is a great day trip from Korca. Less than 1000 people live in the village nowadays, and it is hard to imagine today that Voskopoje was once a very important cultural and trading centre in the Balkans, especially for the Aromanian ethnic group.

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The first reports about the village date back to the 14th century, and Voskopoje experienced its heyday in the 18th century. Even if the reports of 26 churches and more than 30 thousand inhabitants at the time should be treated with caution, the cultural and commercial importance of Voskopoje at the time remains largely undisputed: At the beginning of the 18th century, one of the first printing houses in the Balkans is said to have been opened here, and in the mid-18th century, the only Christian university in the Ottoman Empire was founded.

Attacks in the 18th century, destruction during the First World War and an earthquake led to most of the inhabitants leaving the village and settling in Korca. Today, Voskopoje is a good starting point for hikes, with numerous small hotels, restaurants, and private accommodations catering to tourists seeking peace and quiet. Upon arrival there, I noticed that a lot of investment is now pouring into the small town, with mansions and guest houses popping up.

In this article, I will give you an overview of things to do and see, my recommendations for places to stay as well as my favourite restaurants.

Things To Do and See – Churches

The five remaining churches in Voskopoje have so far only been partially restored, a lot of money and work is still needed here. The ceilings of all five are covered with impressive frescoes depicting religious and biblical scenes in vibrant colour, covering 4,000 square meters of painted surfaces.

St. Nicholas Church

Of the five churches, the most valued is the one dedicated to St. Nicholas (Kisha e Shën Kollit). It stands right in the middle of the village and is characterized by the beautiful arcades of the outer narthex. The church dates back to the beginning of the 18th century. Beautiful frescoes have been preserved both in the arcade and inside, although the vadalism of bygone times is unmistakable here too. Well-known artists such as David Selenica and the Zografi brothers can be admired with their works.

Virgin Mary Cathedral

The Virgin Mary Cathedral (Kisha e Shën Mërisë), which can hold up to 1,000 worshippers and is one of the largest churches in the country, should also not be missed. It is located on the northern edge of the village.

Monastery of St. John the Baptist

Worth a visit is also the monastery of St. John the Baptist (Manastiri i Shën Prodhromit) from 1632, which is situated on a forested hill northeast of the town outside the village. Follow the signs for Hotel Akademia, best reached on foot due to the bad road. The church of the former monastery is the oldest in the region and, like its frescoes, dates back to the 17th century.

A two-hour walk from the monastery takes you to the small village of Shipska, which is a real gem with its small church of St George. Recently renovated with the help of sponsors, you can discover marvellous cycles of frescoes here.

And there is another speciality here: Some residents still speak Aromanian (some also speak Vlachian). This is a Romance language of the Balkan region that dates back to the Roman era and is still spoken in Greece, Macedonia, Serbia, Romania, and Bulgaria. Voskopoje was one of the centres of this language. The nice lady who keeps the key to the church will be happy to give you some examples of this language (see video). According to Wikipedia, 3848 people still declared Aromanian as their mother tongue in a 2011 census.

Voskopoje – Hiking

Hiking around Voskopoje means hiking in stream valleys and meadows, through forests and on plateaus, cross-country and on forest paths and trails, past the remains of old churches up to 1640 metres, where you can enjoy a magnificent panoramic view.

Where to Stay and Eat

Voskopoje offers a wide range of options for dining and accommodation – from guest houses to small hotels that often have restaurants attached.

Accommodation

My favourite place to stay is Bujtina Liana Voskopoje. The family run guest house offers modern, comfy rooms, and you can relax in the beautiful garden in front of the old stone house. The location is very central and breakfast was delicious. I had my own fireplace in the room, which made my stay even more memorable.

Restaurants

• RESTAURANT AMBASSADOR | Traditional restaurant serving dishes made with fresh,
  local, organic ingredients. Excellent meat dishes. Vegetarian options also available. Try the lakror! Contact +355 68 2058552
• TAVERNA VOSKOPOJE | Great restaurant, wide selection of local dishes. Lovely garden area.
  Contact +355 69 4306825

Getting There

Coming from Tirana, the drive will take you about 4 hours to reach Voskopoje. Most people however combine their visit with Korca and lake Ohrid.

There are 4 daily bus connections from Korca to Voskopoja leaving at the following times:

• Korca-Voskopoja:  7:30, 10:00, 13:00, 15:00

To stay more flexible, I recommend renting a car, however. You can also combine a visit to Voskopoje with other villages in the area worth seeing, like Dardha for example.

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