Theth to Valbona Hike, Albania – All you need to know

Hiking › Theth to Valbona Hike, Albania – All you need to know

Don’t miss the incredible hike from Theth to Valbona following an old shepherd trail! It’s a beautiful and challenging route which starts in the mountain village of Theth and heads over the Peja pass into Valbona National Park.

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Hiking in the Albanian Alps

The Albanian Alps, or Accursed Mountains as they are ominously known, are one of the country’s most beautiful destinations for hikers, and while in winter they slumber under a thick blanket of snow and are largely deserted, the warmth of summer brings fresh life and a wave of curious adventurers ready to explore.

Hidden between the folds of the Albanian Alps are two of the region’s most enchanting mountain villages, Theth and Valbona, between which the country’s most famous hiking trail acts as a pulsating artery.

The popular hiking trail offers spectacular views and is the sole reason why many venture into these remote mountains. However, for those with a little more time, there is much more to discover than just this one day hike (2-3 days with travel to and from).

The valley is a real treasure trove of bubbling rivers and pools, green forests and incredibly beautiful hiking trails that are still only visited by a few and have not yet been discovered by the masses that you often find elsewhere in Europe. It’s fair to say that this too is starting to change.

In my guide you will find everything you need to plan your trip to the Albanian Alps and the hike from Theth to Valbona.

Here’s what you need to know about the hike:

• Duration: 7 h
• Hiking Distance: 18 km
• Maximum Elevation gain: 1.100 m
• Difficulty: moderate but long
• Trailhead: Theth village by the tourist information
• Navigation: The hiking trail from the village centrw starting point is well-marked and easy to follow as you will also see other hikers on the path.
• Hiking season: June – October. It can get hot in summer from July to August.

Which direction: Theth to Valbona or Valbona to Theth?

When you arrive in Shkoder and plan to hike into the mountains, the question arises as to where exactly you should start the hike. I can say the hike is spectacular either way, it just depends on how you want to experience it.

I chose to start from Theth for the simple reason that the boat ride along Lake Komani is widely regarded as one of the best experiences in Albania and I felt it would be the perfect reward after a few days of hiking. I also thought that there were many more opportunities for day hikes in Theth, which would be a good warm-up for the main trail after spending exactly zero time exercising and far too much time eating in the previous weeks.

In the end, I was very happy with the way I undertook the trip. I had a few days to relax and explore the area around Theth, and the ferry to Lake Komani was a wonderful way to end the Albanian Alps chapter of my trip.

The main reason to do the hike in the opposite direction is that the entire section between the pass and Valbona is exposed to the blazing sun. If you start in Valbona, you generally reach the ridge in the coolest part of the day before entering the shady forest down to Theth, whereas in Theth you reach the pass around midday and have to tackle the long descent to Valbona in the burning afternoon sun.

Theth: A first taste of the Albanian Alps

From a sleepy Alpine village with a name that would fit perfectly in the pages of The Lord of the Rings, Theth has evolved in recent years into a dense collection of guesthouses catering to the growing flow of tourists to the Albanian Alps.

Set in a lushly forested valley, the village is a perfect base for day hikes in the area as well as a great starting point for the trek to Valbona, and while many rush through in their impatience to reach Valbona, beautiful little Theth ended up being one of the highlights of my time in Albania.

Getting from Shkoder to Theth

Despite its remote location, getting to Theth is actually easy. Most hostels and guesthouses in Shkoder can arrange either an organized shuttle service or a door-to-door public minibus. The trip costs €10 – €12 and usually starts early morning. You will arrive 2 to 3 hours later.

Make sure you get a window seat, because the drive through the mountains is simply beautiful. It takes you past lavender fields on the outskirts of Shkoder, winds steeply up the mountain pass and leads along the rough forest road to Theth. I often asked the driver if there was any room next to him in the front row. I was often lucky and therefore had the best view.

You should arrive in the morning and have enough time to go on one of the many wonderful day hikes in Theth.

Where to stay in Theth

When it comes to accommodation in Theth, you can expect comfortable private rooms, delicious local cuisine and unparalleled mountain views in a growing number of locally run guesthouses.

During the peak summer season (July & August), it’s a good idea to book in advance as the best places will definitely be fully booked. If you book online, however, don’t be fooled by guesthouses that seem incredibly cheap – many are several kilometers from Theth, adding a considerable amount of time to your trek. My recommendation for accommodation in Theth:

Molla Guest House: Conveniently loacted not far from the trailhead, I really enjoyed staying there. The guest house offers marvelous views over the village of Theth located in all the peace and quiet you want. The owners were very warm and welcoming, rooms were clean and the food was delicious.

Day hikes from Theth

As you would expect in such a spectacular mountain region, there are numerous day hikes that can be undertaken from Theth.

Many arrive and head straight for Valbona, but in my opinion they are missing out. Many of the other trails that are not as well known are just as beautiful and far less well trodden.

Blue Eye Theth Hike

Wedged between green, forested peaks, the bubbling turquoise pool of the Blae Eye is another popular choice.

As the saying goes, the destination here is a nice place to rest, but this hike is really all about the journey. Along the way, towering peaks rise from deeply carved valleys and crystal clear waters ripple beside dewy summer fields, with new and exciting views at every turn that make it hard to put the camera down. You should definitely add this tour to your itinerary.

The hike is 18 km long and takes around 6 hours with a break at the Blue Eye. It is mostly flat and well marked, with two routes possible. Most visitors follow the gravel road that goes left over the bridge in Theth and follows the valley for quite some distance. Where the valley forks, bear right and the path crosses the river before eventually leading to a narrower, rocky path that climbs through the forest.

Be sure to take a refreshing dip in the icy pool while you’re still hot from the hike – the water will freeze your brain, grow hair on your chest and bite at your ankles – all at the same time.

The way back is via a smaller path on the opposite side of the river. Just watch out for the bridge as you come out of Nderlyse. There are several rivers to cross on this route, but in late summer these streams were bone dry. If you are traveling in spring or early summer, it may look different.

Grunas Waterfall

The Grunas Waterfall is a small oasis just a 45-minute walk from Theth and can be used as a short solo hike or as part of the Blue Eye loop.

Simply follow the village path downstream on the left for about 30 minutes before turning left. The waterfalls are clearly visible (and eventually audible) from the path, so you can head in the right direction.

Other day hikes | When you arrive in Theth, you can’t miss the towering peaks and passes that rise above the silhouette, and many of them can be reached on foot, such as the beautiful Peja Pass, which takes 2 to 3 hours each way.

The very friendly staff at the visitor center in the heart of the city offer a wealth of information about the region and the various hiking trails.

Peaks Of The Balkans | Keen hikers should consider the 10-day Peaks of The Balkans trek, which runs between Theth and Valbona before reaching the dizzying peaks of Kosovo and Montenegro.

Hiking Theth to Valbona

The reason why most of you have probably clicked through to this post is to find out how to hike from Theth to Valbona. The path is well trodden and clearly marked and leads directly out of Theth, over the pass and then down the slope into the Valbona valley.

From Theth, the trail leads steeply uphill through quiet, shady forests until you have almost reached the saddle. A few small refreshment stops line the path and invite you to take a break on the steep ascent.

Once you reach the pass, you are treated to a magnificent panoramic view and it is finally time for a proper break. A gravel path branches off to the right that leads to the actual summit, and this is where you will find the best views. Even if some hikers skip this short detour, it is definitely worth the visit.

The descent is on a somewhat gentler path that zigzags over loose scree and open meadows to the dried-up riverbed of the Valbona valley. The descent winds downhill in direct sunlight and can become blindingly bright as you cross the glistening riverbed, so polarized sunglasses are a good idea.

Soon, brown bricks peek through the trees and the roar of cars can be heard, and you know you’ve arrived in Valbona.

A night in the Valbona Valley

The Valbona Valley is more accessible than Theth, but still very quiet and peaceful. The wide, glistening white riverbed that makes up most of the Valbona Valley is an ideal place to sit back at the end of the hike and watch the sun rise or set behind the jagged peaks.

The Valbonë Valley National Park encompasses the southernmost continuation of the Dinaric Alps, including part of the Albanian Alps. The Valley is crossed by the Valbona River and is surrounded by a series of beautiful mountain peaks, including Maja e Jezercës (2,694 m / 8,838 ft) and Maja Kollatës (2,552 m / 8,372 ft).

Where to stay in Valbona

Regardless of which direction you hike in, the choice of accommodation in Valbona is an important decision that can add a few kilometers to an already long day of hiking. If you want to spend the night here, you should book early! Prices start at €40 per person. My recoomendation for Valbona:

Guest House Drinos Valbona: My room there was clean, had a balcony with a great view, nice host, very tasty breakfast with homemade fig jam and good coffee were served. Also very good location in the northern part of Valbona – secluded but not too far away from the end of your hike.

Taking the Komani Lake Ferry to Shkoder

Lake Koman is widely regarded as one of Albania’s highlights, and luckily the place more than lives up to the hype.

Rugged cliffs overgrown with prickly shrubs tower high above the calm turquoise waters. Perfect reflections shimmer on the surface of the water, interrupted only by the gentle lapping of boats drifting back and forth.

Even if you’re not planning to explore the Albanian Alps on foot, it’s worth setting aside a couple of hours for the ferry crossing and securing a front row seat to some of the country’s most spectacular scenery.

Although I had read that it is common for guesthouses in Valbona to arrange direct transport from Valbona to Fierze, the lack of visitors at the time of my visit meant a slightly more complicated route with a stop at Bajram Curri.

If there is no direct minibus from Valbona to Fierze, simply take the early morning minibus to Bajram Curri (300 lek/€3.00) which your guesthouse can arrange, before transferring to a rather overpriced cab to Fierze (900 lek/€9 per person) and then heading to the ferry (1200 lek/€12).

On arrival in Komani, there are minibuses waiting to take you the rest of the way back to Shkoder for €10 or 1000 lek. Although the distance isn’t too far, these are definitely the worst roads I’ve encountered in Albania, so the ride is rather slow and bumpy.

Accommodation in Shkoder

The Wanderers Hostel Shkoder | While the hostel scene in Shkoder has been growing with the popularity of the city lately, The Wanderers Hostel Shkoder remains a firm favorite. The many outdoor areas, delicious breakfasts, rental bikes, great location and lovely staff make it one of the best hostels in Shkoder. A really relaxed hangout for backpackers and a great place to unwind after a few days in the mountains.

InTown Guesthouse | For those looking for something a little more private, InTown Guest House is one of the best-rated guesthouses in Shkoder, surrounded by a green garden and offering great hospitality. The owners are very dedicated hosts. Parking is available right in front. Spacious rooms, beautiful garden, beautifully restored historical building. Very good value for money.

Things to know for the hike from Theth to Valbona

What you should pack for the Albanian Alps

Sturdy hiking boots | The trail is very steep and rocky in parts, so a pair of sturdy hiking boots is a good idea. I’m traveling with and love the Lowa Renegade hiking boot, which are wonderfully light, sturdy and waterproof.

A reusable water bottle | No need to buy plastic bottles here! There are a number of icy springs along the trail where you can fill your bottle right at the source. The Klean Kanteen bottle is my favorite.

Waterproof jacket | Even in summer, when it’s swelteringly hot in Tirana and Shkoder, the climate in the mountains is unpredictable and much cooler. One day there can be bright sunshine, while the next afternoon it can be pouring with rain. In summer, a thin base layer with a waterproof outer layer should suffice. In fall and spring, you will definitely need something warmer. An inexpensive option is the rain jacket from Trespass, for example.

Snacks | Nowadays there is a basic mini market in Theth, but I would recommend picking up a few things before arriving in Tirana or Shkoder, especially if you plan to do several hikes in the area or don’t want to buy a packed lunch. Fruit, nuts, cookies and sweets are all a good idea!

A map | Even if the trail is easy to find, a map is an absolute must in the mountains. I always use the free map app Maps.Me, which has the trail and many of the guesthouses marked on it. Just download it before you arrive in the region.

Entertainment | Whether you’re an avid hiker or a first timer in hiking boots, you’ll definitely have plenty of time to relax in the evenings and afternoons. A good old deck of cards is hard to pass up in the mountains, and if you’re on your own, a fully stocked Kindle or Audible library are other handy and easy ways to pass the time.

Top tips for the hike from Theth to Valbona

Pack light | No matter how you do the hike, you’ll have to walk uphill for a long time. To save your legs (and your back), take only the essentials for your time in Theth and Valbona and leave the rest at your accommodation in Shkoder.

Book your accommodation in advance | If you’re traveling in the height of summer, book your accommodation well in advance to secure the best guesthouses in the best locations, especially in Valbona, where the offer is spread throughout the valley.

Get up early | The Valbona side of the hike is fully exposed to the elements, so it’s best to set off as early as possible to avoid the afternoon heat or gusts of wind. If you haven’t booked your accommodation yet, arriving early will also give you first choice of the accommodation still available.

What you should plan for the hike

Out there in the mountains, you won’t have access to an ATM, so you’ll need to bring all the money you want to spend for the three or more days of your visit.

Top tip: The minimarket sells almost the same products as the bar next door, but at half the price.

If you plan to spend more days in the mountains, you should budget at least €60 per day, plus a bit more if the weather thwarts your plans. Also factor in another €5 per person per day if you want to take a packed lunch from your guesthouse.

Travel FAQ

When is the Best Time to Hike Theth – Valbona?

The best time to hike Theth – Valbona is from June – October when the hiking trails are open, and you are more likely to get clear days, which will make your hike much more enjoyable. The weather forecast in the Albanian Alps is pretty accurate, so I recommend you check the forecast about 3 days prior to your journey.

How to Get from Tirana to Shkoder?

From Tirana, you can take one of the many buses going to Shkodra every day from the Northward Bus Station in Tirana. There are numerous buses running every day between the two cities from 7 AM to 6 PM, running every hour. The bus costs 500 LEK and will take around 2 hours to reach Shkoder. It will drop you off at Sheshi Demonkracia roundabout located in the city center, so you should have no trouble walking to your hostel/hotel.

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