Shkoder Tips – All you need to Know Before You Go

Shkoder, the historic centre of northern Albania at the confluence of the Drin and Buna rivers near Lake Shkadar, is definitely worth a visit. Especially for campers, because Shkoder and the surrounding area have some of the best campsites in the country. Or just as a stopover on your onward journey to the south.

Dirk Pohlers

By Dirk Pohlers, adventure traveller from Germany. I visit every place I write about & share real tips, photos, & advice from my trips.

Shkoder Tips - All you need to Know Before You Go - street scene

In addition to the interesting sacred buildings of various religions, above all the imposing Ebu Beker Mosque, the ancient Rozafa Castle, the largest lake in the Balkans – Lake Shkodra, and the old town quarter of Gjuhadol impresses with its beautifully restored houses adding to the highlights that every visitor should see.

Table of Contents

In my article, you will find the best tips for Shkoder and the surrounding area, including all the attractions, accommodation, excursions, activities and travel options.

Overview

Shkoder (or Shkodër) has existed since the 4th century BC and can look back on a rich history. Whether as a day trip from a holiday on the Albanian Adriatic coast or as a stopover on the way to the Albanian Alps, the city offers many must-sees and to-dos for a stay of several days.

Hotels & accommodation

The city centre is home to luxury hotels offering beautiful amenities that are quite affordable by international standards. Even more affordable are the smaller hotels, which are a bit further from the centre but still easily accessible. Those on a walking tour who only want to stay in Shkoder for a day will find accommodation in hiking lodges and small guest houses.

Çoçja Boutique Hotel

Tip: The top-rated Çoçja Boutique Hotel offers tasteful rooms in a restored Italian style building right in the city centre. Enjoy a delicious breakfast here overlooking the beautifully restored inner courtyard.

Camping: Lake Shkodra Resort

The top dog for campers: Lake Shkodra Resort is the largest and best campsite in the Shkoder region. It is located directly on Lake Shkodra, one kilometre from the main road and a total of ten kilometres from the city centre. There are many pitches under deciduous trees and leafy roofs, or, for those who prefer, in the outdoor area on the sunny meadow.

When to go

Albania has very hot summers. If you are travelling to Durrës for a beach holiday, for example, you can expect temperatures of 30 degrees Celsius or more in July and August. In May and September, the days are only a little cooler and average 25 degrees Celsius. For many, this is too hot for sightseeing, hiking and the like. For cooler days that are still sunny, a trip in Mai or October is recommended. From November to March, daytime temperatures often fall below 15 degrees Celsius and there is a comparatively high amount of rain.

Places of interest

Shkoder has a number of places worth seeing that can be visited in one day if you start early in the morning and take leisurely breaks, or in two to three days.

Rozafa Castle Ruins

Rozafa Castle Ruins Shkoder

A castle once stood on the southern edge of the city. Built on a hill, it dates back to the 3rd century BC. The ruins of the old fortress can be visited. While the remains give visitors a sense of times gone by, the museum inside tells the story. Among other things, Illyrian coins and Ottoman weapons can be seen.

Tip: From the castle you can enjoy a magnificent view of the Buna river. It is the outflow of Lake Skadar and meanders through the surrounding nature.

Democracy Square

Many visitors start their exploration of the city at the Square of Democracy (Sheshi Demokracia) in the city centre. Directly to the north is the Migjeni Theatre, which was built in 1958. Its name pays homage to the poet Migjeni and it remains a popular photo opportunity to this day. A few minutes’ walk away you can find the monument to Mother Teresa, erected on a pedestal. This is another popular photo stop for travellers.

Ebu Bekr Mosque

Ebu Bekr Mosque Shkoder with two high minarets

The Great Mosque of Shkoder is the main mosque of the city and is impressive even from the outside. The minarets are 41 metres high, the central dome 24 metres. Semicircular windows begin under the dome, which provide a great deal of light to the interior. The building can be easily reached via the pedestrian zone of Rruga Kolë Idromeno.

Historical Museum

About half a kilometre from the Democracy Square, you will come across a former prison of the secret police Sigurimi. Today, the building is called the Site of Witness and Memory and is open as a museum. The exhibition inside shows the unadorned prison life and conveys both historical knowledge and excerpts from the personal stories of former prisoners.

Marubi National Museum of Photography

"Marubi" National Museum of Photography
“Marubi” National Museum of Photography

The unique and interesting collection shows the oldest photographs in Albania of three generations of the Marubi family, Pietro Marubi, Kel Marubi and Gege Marubi.

The museum is well worth a visit for anyone interested in the history of photography and artistic shots of Albania. It is located in the old town and is air-conditioned. Especially on a hot day, it offers a nice opportunity to take a break from the sun.

  • Opening hours: Tue-Sun 9am – 4pm
  • Admission: 700 Lek (7 euros)

Tip: Enjoy a coffee on the balcony of the trendy Café Flo (Google Maps) at the intersection of nearby Rruga Kole Idromeno and Rruga Gjuhadol and watch the world go by in the old town.

St. Stephen’s Cathedral

The rich enterior of Shkoder_St Stephens Cathedral

The city of Shkoder is considered the centre of Catholicism in Albania. The city’s most important place of pilgrimage is St. Stephen’s Cathedral, also known internationally as St. Stephen’s Catholic Cathedral. After the Ottomans once conquered the city, there were no Christian buildings in Shkoder for a long time. However, in 1851, the sultan at the time approved the construction of the cathedral. The interior design focuses on understated beauty. The three-aisled church building with its 50-metre-high bell tower contains many small treasures, including beautiful frescoes and a picture of Mother Teresa.

Ottoman Bridge

The mighty the Ura e Mesit (Mesi Bridge) over the Kir river dates back to ottoman times
The mighty the Ura e Mesit (Mesi Bridge) over the Kir river dates back to ottoman times

The mountain river Kir rises in the Albanian Alps (Prokletije) and flows into the Drin at the southern end of the city. A little more than a kilometre later, the Drin in turn flows into the Buna, a tributary just before the Adriatic Sea. To cross the Kir river, the Ura e Mesit bridge was built in the 18th century. It rises 15 arches over a length of 108 metres. The middle arch reaches a height of 18 metres. Even today, the bridge construction can be admired. To visit it, you have to drive eight kilometres from the city centre towards the mountains.

Top tip: the natural pools under the Mesi Bridge are great for swimming – except during the hot summer months, when the river often dries up. So don’t forget your swimming gear, and a towel!

Lake Shkodra

Lake Shkodra is a perfect half-day excursion for visitors. Locals also like to use the lake after work or at the weekend to recharge their batteries. The inland water can be reached via a swing bridge and is ideal for hiking or cycling. The village of Shiroka, which offers cosy restaurants serving local fish dishes right on the shore, is just five kilometres away.

If you dare to walk another five kilometres, you will reach the next fishing village: Zogaj. Now you are right on the border with Montenegro and can enjoy a lot of peace and quiet in the village, as most travellers stop in Shiroka. Good to know: You can bathe in Lake Shkodra, but only at the designated places.

Albanian Alps

The area outside the city is even more picturesque. Day trips to the Albanian Alps are worthwhile to get to know the regional vegetation. The mountain massif Prokletije translates as ‘forbidden mountains’. But you don’t have to be afraid of evil spirits. The landscape lies untouched before you, the valleys look like painted and when the weather is sunny, the mountain edges stand out impressively against the blue sky.

Small meadow on the way up shortly before the pass
Small meadow on the way up shortly before the pass

Guided hikes and bike tours are offered. However, the hiking routes should not be too far, especially when it is very hot. In any case, it is advisable to be accompanied by an experienced tour guide, as there are often no markings and many paths are not secured. Together with the group, you can enjoy the carefree beauty of nature.

Activities

There are plenty of things to do in Shkoder and the surrounding area. We have summarised some of the highlights for you below.

Celebrate Carnival

If you happen to be travelling to Shkoder in February or March, you can experience the regional carnival up close. It is a long-standing tradition for the locals to celebrate in the streets and shops during these days.

Experience the market

On Sheshi Demokracia, you can experience the regional market up close. Many traders wear traditional costumes and sell their wares at small stalls. If you don’t want to plunge into the fray, you can find nice cafés on the edge of the square where you can rest and watch.

Visit to the Venice Art Mask Factory

Shkodra-Venice-Art-Mask Factory - masks on display

In the old town, there is a small workshop where elaborate carnival masks are still made by hand. From minimalist half-masks to models adorned with feathers and stones, you can find anything your heart desires. You can visit the workshop and purchase finished masks in the showroom.

Hiking and cycling

The area around Shkodra is ideal for hiking and cycling. If you want, you can find routes that lead to the capital, Tirana. Good hiking boots are important for hikes, as many paths are not paved. Experienced holidaymakers can set off alone, but for curious beginners, group hikes and guided bike tours are recommended.

Tip: For those who want to take in the beauty of the mountain landscape, we recommend excursions lasting several days under expert guidance. These include hotel accommodation and often nice extras such as ferry trips.

Boat trips

As Shkoder is located at the edge of the Albanian Alps, the proximity to various reservoirs is ideal for boat tours. Trips on Lake Koman reservoir are very popular. It gorge spans over more than 34 kilometres and is surrounded by high cliffs. Their rugged shape is reminiscent of fjords in Norway. Cruising through the gorges is an adventure in the heart of nature, and the water, which is up to 96 metres deep, is wonderfully clear. Those who want to do more than a day trip can either camp overnight or book a guest house on the shore.

Travel Tips

Shkoder is still an insider tip for many people and planning may seem more difficult at first. However, with some travel information in your luggage, it is very easy to spend a wonderful holiday in the Balkan country of Albania.

Getting there

The most comfortable way to travel to Albania is by direct flight. You can fly directly from larger cities such as Düsseldorf, Munich or Frankfurt to the capital, Tirana, within two hours. From there, buses run to Shkoder, which take about two hours. It is a bit faster with a rental car or by taxi. If you consider the journey to be an adventure in itself, you can reach Albania and the city of Shkoder by land. From Munich, the journey takes about 16 hours by car. Two other options are to take a ferry from Italy or to fly to Montenegro and take a taxi across the border.

Documents & money

An identity card is sufficient for entry. The document must be valid for at least three months. A visa is only required for stays of more than 90 days in the country.

The currency used is the Albanian Lek. It is advisable to always have some cash with you, as smaller shops in particular do not accept card payments. There are also cash machines for withdrawing money in all major cities, but not in rural areas.

Language & communication

In hotels, restaurants and the big shops in the city, the staff will understand English and speak, but away from that, many locals do not speak English. It is therefore worth having the most important words and a few phrases written down in Albanian. The local people are usually very helpful and will try to help despite the language barrier.

Getting around

Once you arrive in Shkoder, the city itself is easy to explore on foot. However, if you have children, luggage or tired legs, you can also use buses. Several lines connect important points in the city, including the Square of Democracy or the castle ruins. It is even more convenient to rent bicycles. Taxis also drive through the city, but most locals like to use bicycles. This makes you much more mobile in the narrow streets.

Food & local specialities

Shkoder welcomes guests with typical Albanian specialities. The country is known for its hearty cheese and meat dishes. Moussaka (a meat and potato bake) and Fërgesë Tirane (a vegetarian vegetable and cheese bake) are on the menu in many restaurants. And no visit would be complete without trying a petë. This type of pizza is prepared with yeast dough and the ingredients are laid out in layers.

The variety of ingredients allows for countless recipe variations. For dessert or when relaxing in the afternoon, anyone with a sweet tooth will love to try the local dish, lokum. This soft dessert in the form of a cube is made with lots of sugar and syrup. The rice pudding sultjash is equally as sweet.

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