MY ALBANIA ROADTRIP: THE PERFECT 10 DAY ITINERARY

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With its varied landscape, Albania is perfect for an exciting road trip. But which route to take through the country? I present you the coolest route for your tour.

In Albania, you can spend a great beach holiday and relax. You can also embark on an adventurous road trip across the country. Or you can plan both: a round trip and a few relaxing days on the coast.

Table Of Contents

My Albania road trip: the most important information

I’ll tell you which places you should definitely plan to visit and where you can treat yourself to a bit of relaxation in between. I’ll take you to the most beautiful cities and beaches, to small natural wonders and magnificent landscapes.

• Route: Tirana – Theth – Berat & Osum Canyon – Qeparo – Himare – Tirana
• Distance: 900 km
• Pure driving time: 18 hours

Best time to travel: During the main travel season in July and August, the beaches are packed, but it is more pleasant to travel in the off-season in September and October. I still had 25 to 30 degrees at the beginning of September – the best weather for swimming.

Arrival in Tirana – 2 Days

Our journey through Albania begins in the country’s capital. Tirana welcomes us with large boulevards, lots of traffic and a crazy mix of different architectural styles. On the central Skanderberg Square, ultra-modern skyscrapers stand next to concrete buildings with socialist murals and minarets. It is already clear here: Tirana is not the most beautiful city, but it is incredibly interesting and multi-faceted.

Three places you should not miss in Tirana:

• Bunk’Art 1 and 2 deeply impressed and moved me during my visit. The dark past of Albania is documented in various rooms in two old bunkers. Bunk’Art 1 (a little further out) mainly deals with the occupation of Albania during the Second World War, while Bunk’Art 2 (right in the city center) is dedicated to the history of the Albanian secret police.
• The Dajti Ekspres, a gondola lift built in 2005, takes you up to the mountain peak of the same name during the day for 14 euros per person. Once at the top, you can enjoy a fantastic view over the entire city. By the way: Bunk’Art 1 is very close by. It is best to visit the museum first and then take the gondola up the local mountain.
• In recent years, Blloku has developed into a colorful, trendy district with many bars, cafés and restaurants. This is a wonderful place to end the day, e.g. at Radio (somewhat hidden in Rr. Ismail Qemali, P.29 Ap 1). The small bar is very cozy with old movie posters and retro furniture, and the terrace in the backyard serves cocktails as well as small dishes.

The capital Tirana is a great destination if you find it exciting to discover cities away from the mainstream – and if you love coffee. Tirana is one of the cities with the most cafés in Europe. In addition to fascinating history, there is also a beautiful city center to discover.

Hotel tips: The Triss Hotel is located in the middle of the trendy Blloku district in a quiet side street. The service staff are incredibly helpful, the rooms are clean and spacious and the price is more than fair for a 4-star hotel. (Double room for two nights: 158 euros)

If you want to treat yourself to something special, check into the Rogner Hotel. The 5-star hotel is located right in the city center and offers everything you need with a pool, spa, gym, stylish rooms and a fantastic breakfast – and more! (Double room: 186 euros/night)

My rental car in Albania

Driving yourself in Albania is more relaxed than booking a tour, as you can travel at your own pace, enjopy the beautiful scenery and stop wherever you want anytime. For me, a rental car is the best option to travel around Albania in a flexible & time-saving way.

• My recommendation: As Albania is very mountainous, in my experience you should rent a car with enough horsepower.
• Price: In the low season, you can get a rental car with reasonable conditions from 25 euros per day. In the high season, you should expect to pay around twice as much.

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Rent a car! Albania is very safe for motorists, & you can drive across the entire country in less than 8 hours! Best of all, rental cars are very cheap (starting at €30) & easy to book by comparing rates across dealerships in Tirana using DiscoverCars.

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Theth and the Albanian Alps – 2 Days

Time seems to stand still in the village of Theth. The valley in the Albanian Alps consists of a large meadow landscape with traditional stone houses and carefully fenced crop fields. Each family provides for itself from the vegetable garden, the neighbors can be reached via meadow paths and numerous pasture fence ladders. The Theth stream, which gives the village its name and has its source at the top of the valley, babbles through the village.

We stay in an inn for three nights, as the area is perfect for hiking. Scenic highlights are the mighty peaks of the rugged two-thousand-metre mountains and the many waterfalls. The Grunas waterfall is particularly impressive with a drop of 30 meters. Several easy to moderately difficult hiking trails start in the village center. Those who want to really challenge themselves will find hiking trails in the Valbona valley that lead to dizzying heights.

Hotel Tip: Villa Molla is located in the middle of the mountains above Theth. Country life is very important here: The rooster crows in the morning, home-made products are served for breakfast and cows stray into the hotel’s own parking lot. A night in a double room costs 100 euros.

The road to Theth

Fortunately, the road to Theth has been asphalted throughout in recent months, as the panoramic mountain road is narrow in many places and winds its way past deep gorges. Fortunately, there are plenty of places to pull over. We not only encounter other cars, but also the odd flock of sheep. It takes us around four hours to get from Tirana to Theth. The drive is exhausting, as progress is slow. Make sure you stop for fuel before the mountain road!

Berat & Osumi Canyon Corovoda – 2 Days

For me, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Berat is without question one of the most beautiful places in Albania. The most striking feature are the white Ottoman houses that reach up to the fortress and give Berat the name “City of a Thousand Windows ”. Although Berat has become more and more of a tourist center in recent years, it has managed to retain its carefree charm.

In addition to the inhabited fortress from Ottoman times, you should definitely not miss the Mangalemi quarter. The narrow stone alleyways lead through the former Muslim craftsmen’s and merchants’ quarter. Small inns, taverns and artisan stores ensure that the quarter is still lively today. Not far from the lively main street is the medieval Ottoman city center, where the King Mosque and Halweti-Tekke are located. The call of the muezzin echoes regularly through the streets, followed a little later by the ringing of church bells. In hardly any other city is the harmonious coexistence of religions (which is typical of Albania) as evident as in Berat.

Hotel tip: Villa Dona is perfect if you want to stay in Berat for a few days. You have the very spacious apartment all to yourself and the view from the terrace is unique. The landlord Ennio speaks good English and is very helpful – even when it comes to restaurant tips. There is a parking lot a few minutes’ walk from the apartment. Be careful: it’s a steep climb! (Double room for two nights: 114 euros)

The Osum Canyon, which cuts deep into the landscape and is around 14 kilometers long, is my absolute insider tip for a road trip in Albania. It was more by chance that we found out that canyon hikes are offered through the gorges. We made an appointment with Genti, who has been organizing guided tours through the Osum Canyon for several years.

With a small group of seven people, we board the minibus and head off into the Albanian Grand Canyon. The comparison with its US counterpart is no exaggeration. The up to 80-metre-high yellow-grey cliffs and the bizarre rock formations are incredibly impressive. Waterfalls cascade from the vertical walls into the Osum River, which winds its way through the mountains. And indeed: after a photo stop above the gorges, we hike into the canyon together with our guide Genti – wearing water shoes and swimming gear! In many places you have to wade through the water, some passages can only be crossed by swimming . A real adventure! We pause again and again and are amazed by the scenery and the small bathing spots. Our conclusion: better than any day at the beach!

Himare, Qeparo & the Albanian Riviera – 4 Days

Our Albania road trip takes us along long winding roads down to the bright blue sea. The Mediterranean Riviera coast between the Llogara Pass and Saranda is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful regions in Albania – and predestined for beach hopping. The most famous places in southern Albania are Saranda, Ksamil, Himara and Dhërmi. There is a lot going on here, especially in the high season. Tourism is not always sustainable: hotel complexes are built far too quickly instead of taking care of the local population and the environment.

Himarë is a small Mediterranean town with a lively Greek influence and an abundance of wild olive trees, located between Vlora and Saranda. Soft sandy beaches stretch along the coast and fishing boats drift listlessly on the calm sea. Old and new fortresses are just a stroll away, and the fantastic food in the restaurants is matched only by the sunset views.

My insider tip

The small village of Qeparo near Himare offers a more relaxed atmosphere. With the expansion of the beach promenade, it has become a lovely little seaside resort in recent years. The beach is shallow and the water is wonderfully clear.

My beach tips for the Albanian Riviera:

• Porto Palermo: The water in the bay is crystal clear and is known as a good diving spot. Several small pebble beaches invite you to sunbathe. From there you can look over to the fortress island, there is also a small beach bar.
• Gjipe beach: This beautiful beach is located below the canyon of the same name. Surrounded by rocks, it is a real paradise and pristine place to swim. With two beach bars, there is still plenty to eat and drink. Good to know: The gravel road to the beach is only accessible with a four-wheel drive, for all others it is a 20-minute walk.
• At 45 kilometers, the beaches of Borsh are among the longest on the south coast. The water is crystal clear, there are often waves and the view of the mountains is magnificent. The most beautiful sections are secluded at the southern end, almost below Piqueras.
• The beach at Ksmail is one of the most famous places in Albania. Opinions differ about the place because of the building boom, but the flair of the beach cannot be denied. Opposite the four wooded islands on Abiori Beach, the white sand and reed-covered parasols provide the ultimate Hawaiian feeling.

Reading tip: You can find even more beautiful beaches in Albania here

Hotel tip: Guest House Suga is located above the beach in Qeparo. The beach can be reached in less than ten minutes via a small path. The incredibly friendly Greek hosts welcome us with a cold drink, help us park and provide us with Albanian pancakes. The small apartment (with kitchen and balcony) is simply furnished, but is perfectly adequate for us. We pay 50 euros per night for the whole apartment. More than fair!

Tips for your Albania road trip

How many days should you plan for Albania?

We were on the road for ten days, but I would have liked three or four days more, as the roads are not always well developed. There are only a few highways and the roads often lead through towns or wind through mountain landscapes. There is more to see, but progress is slow.

My recommendation: 10 days is the perfect amount of time to see a lot during your Albania road trip. If it’s your first time in the country, it’s best to concentrate on the south with Berat, Gjirokastra and the Albanian Riviera. We lost a lot of time driving into the Albanian Alps.

So: don’t plan too long routes to stay spontaneous! In Berat, for example, we stayed a day longer because we liked the area so much.

Do you need a rental car in Albania?

Without question, a car is the most convenient and easiest way to get around on a road trip in Albania. Although there is public transport, intercity buses mainly run between the well-known places. If you want to explore small bays or unknown places, it is better to book a rental car.

We compared various providers via DiscoverCars and opted for Budget. We paid around 600 euros for 10 days – including the most important insurances. This is also important in Albania, as the roads can be a bit chaotic.

Is it safe to travel through Albania by car?

The roads in Albania are now quite well developed, but you will still encounter the odd pothole – sometimes even in the middle of the highway. Road markings are sometimes missing or faded.

We noticed this on the very first day of our road trip. Some of the locals drive erratically and suddenly swerve out of the way of potholes or brake abruptly. They hardly ever blink, not even on traffic circles.

And we learned something else during our Albania road trip: in rural areas, always watch out for people and animals on the road. On the mountain road to Theth, we came across cows, horses and even whole flocks of sheep.

It all sounds a bit chaotic at first glance, but if you drive with foresight, you won’t have any problems driving in Albania.

Refueling in Albania

Albania is a cheap country to travel to, but the fuel prices during our road trip (September 2023) were not very different from those in Germany. In Albania, an employee fills up for you. Simply tell them the desired fill level and they will pay. Good to know: At large petrol stations you can pay by card, at smaller petrol stations sometimes only in cash!

Can I drive to Albania by car?

In principle, your Albania road trip can also start in Germany or elsewhere in central Europe – but only with your own car, as rental car providers generally do not allow border crossings to Albania.

Which route to Albania is the best?

• The quickest route is via the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary, Serbia and North Macedonia. The so-called Balkan route is probably familiar to many Greece fans.
• Alternatively, you can also drive via Austria to Hungary and then through Serbia and North Macedonia.
• One route to Albania is particularly beautiful: the journey through Slovenia, Croatia and Montenegro. Places like Split invite you to stop off and the sea is always close by.

No matter which route you choose: Depending on the starting point, you will be on the road for around 22 hours or more (without breaks). The journey therefore easily takes two to three days .

Reading tip: Albania Holiday – Guide to the Balkan destination

The fastest route to Albania is still by plane, taking two and a half hours. There are regular flights to Tirana from German airports. Alternatively, if you mainly want to go on a beach vacation, you can fly to Corfu and take the ferry across to Albania.

Conclusion: I want to return!

After ten days on the road in Albania, I am certain that I will definitely return to this very special country a second time. The landscapes, the friendliness of the people and the complex history of the country moved and inspired me. There are few vacations where I have had such good conversations and taken so many photos as in Albania.

The country is perfect for anyone who wants to try something different – without leaving their comfort zone too much. The beaches and the food can easily compete with other European countries. What’s more, the Albanian people are so helpful and sociable that you immediately feel at home.

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