Lake Skadar, also referred to as Lake Shkodra or Lake Skutari is located in the border area between Albania and Montenegro. The lake, with its area between 370 and 530 km², is the largest lake on the Balkan Peninsula.
It is 48 kilometres long and 14 kilometres wide. At its deepest point, the lake reaches a depth of 50 metres. The lake is also a popular resting place for migratory birds. The part of the lake that belongs to Montenegro was declared a national park in 1983. In the summer months, the outside temperature can rise to almost 40°. Over the course of the year, the water temperature varies between 8° C and 27° C. Around the lake, breathtaking mountains can be seen. These were heavily glaciated during the last ice age.
By Dirk Pohlers, adventure traveler from Germany. I visit every place I write about & share real tips, photos, & advice from my trips.
Although Lake Skadar (or Lake Skutari) grows to a size comparable to Lake Garda after the winter snow melts, the freshwater reservoir is still largely unknown to most foreign tourists.
This natural jewel offers breathtaking scenery and many things to do for holidaymakers – visitors can explore untouched beaches all year round, cycle around the lake to old fishing villages. Further activities include hiking to hidden caves, kayaking to the unique island monasteries of Beska, Gorica and Moracnik in the southern part of Lake Skadar, or tasting the wine of local winemakers.
In addition, more than 260 bird species populate the wetland habitat, pelicans, and herons live in the reeds, while hawks and eagles circle majestically over the adjacent chestnut forests. In certain areas of the park, the protected birds can be observed particularly well; for a small fee, visitors can access these areas.
Holidaymakers should bear in mind that temperatures can reach up to 40 degrees Celsius during the hot summer months in July and August. Those who want to stay active should come in the autumn or winter months. When the lake expands by 100 square kilometres in winter, almost 50,000 new birds also settle in the freshwater area to spend the winter there.
Sleepy Virpazar on the Montenegrin side is the place that gets by far the most tourists. However, very few of them stay, with the majority travelling there on day trips from the coast.
The must-do for day trippers is a boat trip across the western part of the lake, past extensive fields of water lilies. We skipped the boat trip. Why? Because we don’t think that the loud boat engines and the resulting waves are particularly good for the ecosystem of this otherwise quiet natural paradise. You’d be better off renting a paddle boat! The fish, reptiles, amphibians and birds will thank you for it. If your accommodation doesn’t have a paddle boat, you can rent one from the visitor centre of the national park in Virpazar.
As my home base for our time at Lake Skadar, I chose the highly recommended Eco Villas Merak. These are located in a beautiful green area, just under 5 minutes by car from Virpazar.
The extremely accommodating host couple live here themselves and have not only built a pool on the property, but also several small apartments. These are simply furnished, but with everything you need (air conditioning, kitchen, living area, extra bedroom).
If you want to continue to Albania and are wondering which route to take, our answer is clear: the southwest route! Along the northeast route, you will hardly see anything of the lake due to the lack of roads near the shore (swampy!). The road after the border to Shkoder is also not particularly exciting, as it leads through a rather flat landscape.
The southwest route from Virpazar to Shkoder, on the other hand, is a dream. It is also called the ‘monastery route’. The reason for this is that there were once nine small monasteries on the southern shore of the lake, some on rocky islands in front of the shore and others on slopes above the lake. Some of them have now fallen into disrepair, but others are still active.
You should definitely plan around two hours from Virpazar to the border, more if you want to stop for a bite, go swimming or maybe even stay overnight somewhere. The inhabitants of the southern slopes are friendly people, ethnic Albanians who sell honey and sweet red wine that is drunk cold by the roadside.
The western shore has in fact only few access points to the lake. There is one (including a beach) in the village of Murići. There is also a small campsite with a restaurant there. It would be a good location for our next trip to Lake Skadar. You could stay there longer. The many hiking signs pointing into the mountains suggest good hiking terrain with scenic trails.
Shkoder (or Shkodër) is the largest city on the lake and the cultural and economic centre of northern Albania. It’s a good place to get a whiff of city air after so much peace and quiet on the Montenegrin side.
Around 113,000 people live in Shkoder. It feels like most of them are out and about by bike. The most famous sight is the castle on a hill south of the city. But we didn’t go up there. We were drawn to where the people are: to the heart of the city, which is set back from the lake.
Beautiful old buildings line the boulevards. There is a small bazaar with an almost oriental flair. In fact, a lot of things here reminded us of Turkey: the fabric, leather and curtain shops, where smoking men sit outside. The small electrical shops, where televisions and refrigerators are stacked up to the ceiling. The uniform chic of the banks. The crowded coffee houses. The street stalls with corsetry. The cigarette sellers. The shops that offer used mobile phones and phone units. Only in contrast to Turkey, everything is a bit more leisurely, without honking and oriental shouting. There is also a lack of restaurants, grill bars and other eateries. Albania is a poor country, and you can tell from the gastronomy.
My base in Shkoder was the Lake Shkodra Resort, seven kilometres north of the city, a beautiful large square right on the lake. Campers under protective roofs. Glamping area. A fantastic restaurant with lake view. I truly enjoyed my days in this Western European exclave, no doubt about it.
In terms of lakes in Europe, this one is among the most endangered, most important and most species-rich. The marshy areas of the lake are filled with mixed colonies of pelicans, cormorants, herons, kingfishers, ducks, and various other rare species.
If you are wondering what there is to see at Lake Skadar, the answer is simple: birds. An internationally important bird sanctuary, Lake Skadar is a fantastic destination for birdwatchers. It is home to the rare Dalmatian pelican, Whiskered Tern and one of the world’s largest colonies of Pygmy cormorants.
The lake, surrounded by barren karst mountains, is also a perfect starting point for hikes. Several hiking trails wind their way through the mountains, hills and valleys, leading to destinations as diverse as waterfalls and bathing spots, historic villages and honey farms. The views from the mountain tops are absolutely magnificent.
My highlight at Lake Skadar was actually the drive along the fantastically beautiful panoramic road that winds from Virpazar north along the shore. You will pass beautiful viewpoints here, so it’s worth stopping several times.
First up is Café Macalov Brijeg, which you reach in about half an hour from Virpazar. It’s hard to miss, as this gem is right on the road. There are a handful of tables in the front row with a great view of Lake Skadar.
The road then takes you to the tiny, sleepy village of Rijeka Crnojevića. Here, you can make a short stop to admire and photograph the historic stone arch bridge.
From Podgorica International Airport, it’s just a stone’s throw – in less than half an hour, you can reach Virpazar. Coming from Kotor you should plan 1.5 hours by Car to get to lake Skadar.
There are also frequent bus connections from Kotor and Budva to Ulcinj in southern Montenegro. From my personal experience, you need flexibility to explore the shores of the lake, so I recommend renting a car for your trip.
Coming from Tirana International Airport, which offers significantly more connections, you can reach the lake in 2 hours by car.