Planning on visiting Berat? Then make sure to check out my first-timers guide to the best things to do in the city and its surroundings.
By Dirk Pohlers, adventure traveler from Germany. I visit every place I write about & share real tips, photos, & advice from my trips.
The best activities and things to see, including Berat Castle and a day trip to the Osum Canyon, plus tips on how to get to Berat by bus from Tirana. Berat is an elegant stone and alabaster town surrounded by fig trees and separated by the Osumi River. The ancient Illyrian settlement, which became a Byzantine border town, is known for its Ottoman houses that cascade down both sides of the river valley. The evenly spaced portals cut into the stone facades give the town its famous nickname “city of a thousand windows”.
Berat is located in the southern interior of Albania. Here, between the foothills of the Shpirag Mountains around Mount Tomorr and divided by the Osum River, the old town is a highlight of a visit. The old stone houses have countless high windows that look as if they were stacked on top of each other. The city, together with Gjirokastra, was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
After spending two weeks exploring the region, I’ve created this list of the best things to do in Berat to help you make the most of your time in one of my favorite spots in Albania.
The city is compact; you can visit the sights & highlights of the historic old town around the castle in one day. I recommend staying at least two nights so you can experience the sunset and the illumination of Berat after dark. A true highlight is the Osum Canyon nearby that is best experienced on a day tour.
I don’t recommend doing Berat as a day trip from Tirana unless you have your own vehicle or join an organised tour. If you are coming from Tirana like I did, you should also read my tips for the city of Tirana and recommended day trips from the capital.
You can travel from Tirana by bus, taxi or car. There is no train connection. Travelling by bus from Tirana to Berat is affordable and easy. Minibuses (33-seater) run regularly from the North/South bus stations in Tirana. There are also connections from Vlora and other cities within the country. Buses run approximately every hour. Like the Furgons, the minibuses usually only depart when the bus is full. You should never have to wait longer than 30 minutes.
The journey from Tirana takes 2 hours, or a little longer if the traffic is heavy. The fare is 500 lek per person, about €5.00. Simply buy your tickets on board the bus. Once you arrive, the bus ends at the bus station, which is located 3 kilometres north of the old town. From the bus station, you can either hop on a green city bus that will take you to the centre (30 Lek per person, approx. 0.30 €), or take a taxi directly to your hotel (I was charged 500 Lek, approx. 5.00 €).
Here you will find the best sights & activities in Berat, as well as some suggestions for day trips.
The long brushstroke of chestnut-coloured roofs that make up the historic centre around the old town of Berat runs through the valley of the River Osum. Twin peaks rise on either side. Gorica Mountain, the higher of the two, bears a stone crown: the imposing Castle from the 13th century. The “Kalaja” is the largest castle in Albania. Unlike other fortresses in the region, which have been heavily modified over the course of time, Berat Castle is still largely intact. Within its walls is a huge citadel complex with stone streets, houses and Byzantine churches intermingled with ruins from different eras.
Travel Tip: Getting to the Castle from the lower town involves a long, steep climb up a cobblestone road, but the beautiful surroundings are well worth it. It is open 24 hours a day. Go in the early morning or visit in the late afternoon to enjoy the sunset from the castle walls. Officially, there is an entrance fee of 100 lek between 9am and 6pm, but I wasn’t charged anything ever on multiple visits.
Having visited dozens of fortresses in the Balkans, Berat Castle is completely unique. The area is also known as the “castle neighbourhood” because many families still live within the citadel walls. Some houses have been converted into guesthouses, restaurants or souvenir shops. Others are still private residences.
On a tour, it is not uncommon to see men herding sheep, children playing football and women selling lace and embroidered tablecloths at small stalls in front of their houses. Berat Castle is not a relic – it still has a heartbeat. One of the best things to do is to join the locals on their evening stroll around the grounds of the castle.
Aside from the walls and ramparts themselves, the fortifications’ main attractions include the 14th-century Church of the Holy Trinity, the 13th-century Church of St Mary of Blachernae with its beautiful frescoes and the remains of the ancient acropolis, including an underground water cistern. Designated viewing platforms offer the best panoramic views over Berat, but you can find beautiful views from almost anywhere – including epic sunsets.
The ruins of the White Mosque (Albanian: Xhamia e Bardhë or Ak Mesxhid), also known as Sultan Bayezid II. Mosque, are also found within the castle walls.
Bathed in golden light at dusk, the Church of the Holy Trinity is one of the most beautiful sights. Built in the 13th and 14th centuries, the Church Kisha Shen Triadha is another landmark here with great significance. Whoever designed this church was both inspired and imaginative: the architecture combines Byzantine and Western elements, and inside, several column capitals were reused from ancient ruins. Even if you don’t enter the church, it’s enough to enjoy the view of the dome perched on a hill.
For a city of its size, Berat has some truly magnificent mosques. The ruins of the 15th century Red Mosque and the White Mosque are both located on the grounds of the castle.
There are several active mosques in the old town (on the Mangalem side of the river, of course). These include the King’s Mosque (Sultan Mosque), the steel lead mosque and the recently restored bachelor mosque from the 1820s, which is located on the cobbled streets of the riverside.
The latter was named after two young Berati men who went to Istanbul to work and donated this beautiful religious building to their hometown with the money they earned.
The river valley that runs through the city divides the city into two districts: Mangalem (Mangalemi) and Gorica. Today there is no significant difference between these two neighbourhoods, but in earlier centuries Mangalem was traditionally the Ottoman or Muslim quarter, while the Christians lived on the other side of the river in Gorica. Together they form the old town centre of Berat.
Mangalem, the larger of the two neighbourhoods, spreads out under the wings of the castle. Like creeping vines stretching towards the sun, the houses stretch up the hillside, vying for a precious slice of the priceless view of Berat.
Winding stone alleyways and narrow streets connect impressive Ottoman-style houses. Halveti Tekke, Berat’s dervish house built by Ahmet Kurt Pasha in 1782, the bachelor mosque, Orthodox churches and other landmarks of the old town are all located along the historic streets of Mangalem.
Continue Reading: Where to Stay in Berat?
Mangalem and Gorica are connected by the Gorica Bridge, a seven-arched stone bridge modelled on the Ottoman bridge in Visegrad in Bosnia and Herzegovina.
In the Gorica neighbourhood, the architecture is just as beguiling and the narrow streets are just as steep. Many of the houses from the 18th century are designated as cultural monuments worth seeing and are signposted with information boards.
Climb up the sloping cobbled streets on the left bank of the river behind the Hotel Muzaka to reach the top of Gorica Hill. On the way up, there are breathtaking views of the sights of Mangalem and the silhouette of Berat Castle, which stands out against the distant mountains.
The Xhiro is a tradition throughout Albania. At sunset, entire villages and towns flock onto the nearest pedestrianised street for a walk. People walk up and down for hours, stopping to chat with friends, play a game of chess outdoors, eat an ice cream or have a coffee in a street café.
In Berat, Boulevard Republika is the most popular place for a xhiro. The huge car-free street is lined with cafés on one side and the Lulishtja, a green buffer between the street and the river, on the other. If you’re looking for a local experience, a stroll on a crisp evening is one of the best things to do in Berat. If you’re looking for a cool place to spend a few hours, Gimi Kafe (one of the first cafés near the old town) offers excellent air conditioning and WIFI.
The Museum of Iconography of Onufri (Muzeu Onufri ) is one of the best places to visit in Berat. It was established to preserve a collection of icons, artworks and artefacts recovered from the ruins of Berat’s religious buildings.
If you only want to visit one museum in Berat, you should choose this one and not the Ethnographic Museum. It offers a window into a unique and very beautiful aspect of Albanian history.
The Onufri Museum is located in the grounds of the castle and is housed in the Church of the Assumption, a three-aisled Byzantine basilica that was restored in 1797. The entrance leads to a preserved part of the cathedral, where you can see the original altar, the amvona and the bishop’s throne, all covered with ornate frescoes and wood carvings.
The second part of the museum is organised like a gallery. A remarkable collection of Orthodox icons, paintings and other ephemera is displayed on whitewashed walls. There are some works by Onufri, the 16th-century archpriest and painter after whom the institution is named. The museum offers a 90-minute audio guide in English, although it was not in operation at the time of our visit. I recommend taking it with you if you have the opportunity, as signposting in the museum is limited.
The Onufri Iconography Museum is open in summer from Tuesday to Sunday from 9am to 6pm. In winter, the museum closes at 4pm and is open on Sundays from 10am to 2pm. Admission costs 400 lek, approx. €4.00 (500 lek with audio guide, approx. €5.00)
On the other side of the river, in Mangalem, is the National Ethnographic Museum of Berat, one of the most magnificent Ottoman-era buildings in the city. We have already visited a dozen of these museums in the Balkans: The one in Berat is the largest and one of the most remarkable we have seen so far.
As usual, the house is furnished as it must have looked when it was built. Interestingly, you can also see the bathroom here (in most house museums, this part of the property is closed off). Admission costs 300 lek, and the same summer and winter opening hours apply as at the Onufri Museum.
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[mc4wp_form id=300]Above the old Gorica neighbourhood, the Gorica ruins overlook the beautiful city of Berat. The ancient ruins are just a short hike up a wooded hillside and stand directly above one of Berat’s famous medieval neighbourhoods – the Gorica district.
Above the neighbourhood, a hiking trail leads to the extensive remains of the former castle. To find the entrance, simply follow the signs hanging between the stone houses. The ruins themselves are not signposted and it can be difficult to find them as several paths intersect. However, if you look up the hill, you will see huge stones in the shape of a wall between the trees.
Fireplaces are scattered around the hill, and hikers come for the fresh air and breathtaking views. You might even catch a local goatherd taking an afternoon nap under the shady trees.
From the Gorica ruins, you can see the entire city of Berat in Albania. Directly opposite is Berat Castle and below it the beautiful St Michael’s Church. From a bird’s eye view, you can see the Gorica neighbourhood and its many churches. The Mangalem neighbourhood with its “thousand windows” and the famous Gorica Bridge, which connects the two neighbourhoods, are also within sight.
In addition to its status as a cultural destination with a mixture of religions, the town also scores highly as a starting point for hikes and walks. The almost untouched landscape with the 2,415 metre high Tomorr Mountain invites you to slow down. The mountain is one of the highest in Albania and was long regarded as sacred because the grave of a saint is said to be located there. The national park of the same name, which surrounds the impressive peak, is just under an hour’s drive from Berat. It now covers an area of 24,700 hectares. The panorama is characterised by high mountains and deep valleys.
Mount Tomorr one of the highest natural points of southern Albania, rising between the valleys of the rivers Osum and Tomorrica.
Travel Tip: To enjoy some scenic views of mount Tomorr without spending several days hiking, head to Alpeta Agriturizem & Winery in Roshnik. Located a 30min drive away from the city, the restaurant offers delicious and fresh local food with some great views of the surrounding hills and valley.
Staying overnight in Berat is multifaceted. You can expect cosy, small hotels and accommodations in the middle of the quaint old town. Even within the castle walls, you can enjoy the nights in various hotels and guest houses in a very special atmosphere.
One of the newer additions in Berat. Located in a historic building right next to the river, Hotel Muzaka offers arguably the best views of the Mangalem quarter with easy access to the old town right across the bridge. Andi and his team are also great hosts. Rooms are clean and very comfortable.
For those who want to stay inside the calls walls, this Hotel is the best choice. Rooms are spacious and cozy at the same time. The staff around owner Elfi is friendly and welcoming offering great hospitality. The view over the city is totally worth the stay.
This slightly more upmarket but still reasonably priced guest house has well-equipped rooms and a large roof terrace with a marvellous view of the city of Berat. Breakfast is included. Ross’ parents used to live here – of course we spent a lot of time on their terrace!
Green overgrown slopes and steep cliffs clasp the river in the Osum Canyon. A day trip from Berat offers you several spectacular viewpoints, such as from the Osumi Canyon Bridge. Each way you drive about 1.5 hours from Berat to Osum Canyon. The best season to explore Osum Canyon is between July and September.
I recommend joining a guided day tour to explore the Osum Canyon. Getting into the canyon by yourself without the necessary gear is not reommended. Early and late in the year you will need a wesuite. Getting to the most scenic waterfalls is somewhat complicated. I recommend this tour:
The best months for good weather are May, June, July, August, September and October. On average, the warmest months are July and August. January is the coldest month of the year. The rainiest months are January, February, March, November and December.
There are a number of bus connections to other cities in Albania like Tirana, Vlora or Gjiropkaster leaving from the central bus terminal in Berat. All you need to do is show up a few minutes before buses are leaving. You just board the bus and pay inside after it leaves.
Hi. I’m Dirk, adventure traveller, originally from Germany. In 2020, Adventure Albania, started as an Albania travel blog. A few months later, I founded a small travel agency to complement my recommendations with some of the best experiences that I found, organized by local partners and friends.
I have meanwhile moved to Albania and am now based in Tirana. I continue exploring new corners of Albania and the balkans and regularly update my blog with the latest in travel and experiences. If you are visiting Albania as a digital Nomad, check out my coliving project "Nomad Island Tirana".
I only make genuine, worthwhile recommendations based on my experience, expertise, & research. If you buy through my links, I may get a commission, supporting this website at no extra cost to you.
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