Are you just planning your Albania holiday for one week? I have created the perfect itinerary for you to follow including tips for car hire, accommodation & activities. Start planning!
Albania has something to offer for everyone and, due to its size, can be discovered in a short amount of time! After my Albania road trip in 2024, I was thrilled by the beautiful beaches, narrow mountain roads and natural wonders. But also by how incredibly crowded it will be in Albania in summer. Tourism is only just arriving here, so hurry with your Albania road trip to have all the beauty to yourself for a little while longer.
In this article, you will find my 7-day itinerary for travelling around Albania, including all the places I visited with my best friend Jan. In addition, some attractions that I unfortunately didn’t have time to visit, but that I definitely want to discover on a second trip to Albania.
First of all: Yes, 7 days is really not enough time for this beautiful country. That’s why I decided – heavy hearted – to only discover part of Albania. I chose the Albanian Riviera and the cities of Gjirokaster and Berat, which are located more inland on the way to Tirana. Yes, you could also squeeze in a few highlights of the Albanian Alps in 9 days. But then you would only have one night per place. Therefore, I would recommend 2 weeks for a road trip through Albania including the north. But now let’s get started with my Albania road trip!
We decided to book a rental car via DiscoverCars and were headed into town just a few minutes after we left the terminal building. The drive takes about 30 mins.
I was really very pleasantly surprised by Tirana and liked the lively vibe here. Yes, there are still a lot of construction sites and traffic noise here is very prominent, but Tirana is also full of colour: colourful house facades, street art and futuristic buildings instead of more prefabricated concrete tower blocks. Originally an Ottoman fortress in the 17th century, Tirana has developed into a modern metropolis that nowadays proudly presents its rich heritage. I recommend checking out the following places:
Recommendation for your stay: 1 night
Our Hotel: Boutique Hotel Gloria
Eating & drinking:
We went directly from Tirana to Himarë the next day (240 km; about 3 h 30). If you have good weather, drive over the Llogara Pass (+ 15 min) – the view is from the pass is great if you catch a day without clouds (although the view through the interior of the country was also really not bad).
I found the castle of Himarë really beautiful – even though not much is left of it. Through narrow alleys, past countless stone houses, the path takes you 260 metres uphill to this historic landmark. At the top of the hill, you have a magnificent panoramic view of the Ionian Sea!
10 km further north, you are already quite close to the beautiful Gjipe Beach and the truly spectacular canyon. From the parking, a picturesque coastal hiking trail (1.8 km, approx. 35 min) leads to this beautiful hidden bay with its delicate pebble beach, steep cliffs and crystal-clear water. The bay is no longer that secret (there are bars, toilets and a campsite), but it is definitely worth a visit.
On the way south from Himarë, you will pass the Porto Palermo Castle. It is located on a small peninsula about 7 km from Himarë. Originally built in the 19th century, the castle served as a defensive fortress against enemy attacks on the bay of Palermo. It was commissioned by Ali Pasha of Tepelena, an Albanian ruler, to consolidate his power and control the region. You will certainly hear more about him during your holiday in Albania.
Recommended stay: 2-3 nights
Our hotel: Elea Guesthouse Himare
Eating & Drinking:
The next stop on our itinerary was Himarë. From Himarë, it is about 70 km to Ksamil by rental car (about 1h 30mins). There are numerous places to stop along the way (see activities around Himarë), which will enhance your journey.
Ksamil
The picturesqe bays, the crystal-clear water with the blue-turquoise colour highlights and the light pebble beach blew me away! Ksamil really has the most beautiful beaches in the country. End of May (and September/October too) is the perfect time to go there: few tourists, very warm and the pleasant water temperatures make it ideal for swimming.
To be considered: Ksamil is a tourist hotspot. The aim seems to be to cram as many tourists as possible into as small an area as possible: when I was there, construction noise dominated the picture. In the high season (July to August), the beaches, crammed with sun loungers, are packed like sardines.
Blue Eye Saranda
The Blue Eye definitely deserves its name: crystal-clear, deep-blue water flows from a natural spring. All around you are mountains and lots of green space. Is it worth visiting? It depends. First of all, you walk 2 km along a paved road to get there. Then you arrive at a place that will be packed with people, just to look at a beautiful pool of water. It’s not as if you could swim there or experience a great hike. If you’re driving from Ksamil to Gjirokaster anyway, make a stop there.
Butrint Archeological Park
A few minutes’ drive south of Ksamil lies the archaeological site and UNESCO World Heritage Site of Butrint. Its history dates back to the 8th century BC and shows influences from various civilisations, including Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Venetian. We spent a good three hours here, walking along the entire city wall and discovering the ancient ruins, some of which are very well preserved, in the middle of the forest (e.g. the Acropolis, a basilica, the amphitheatre and the ancient bathhouse).
My Recommendation: It’s better to find a quiet hotel outside the city and drive in for a day or two. I can only recommend an overnight stay in the city for May/early June and October. Perfect swimming time out of season. 2 nights is enough.
Our Hotel: Hotel Meta Ksamil
Eating and drinking:
From Ksamil it is about 65 km to the city of Gjirokaster (about 1h 15mins). If your hotel is located in the historic old town, you don’t want to drive your car up the super narrow, cobblestone streets. I recommend to park in the new underground car park or drive up the street as far as possible and then park at the roadside. Because of its well-preserved buildings, with layers of Greek, Albanian, and Ottoman remains, it’s been awarded UNESCO World Heritage status. There’s lots to see, so plan some time to explore all the different areas of this charming hilltop city.
Gjirokaster Castle
The castle dates from the 12th century and is considered one of the best-preserved castles in Albania. It towers high above the city and offers a great view of the surrounding valley. Over the centuries, it has played an important role in the defence of the region. However, it was also used to imprison political opponents during the Hoxha dictatorship. Apart from cannons and an American aeroplane from past wars, you won’t see much, but the views from up here were truly splendid.
Take a walk through the old town & bazaar
Gjirokaster old town is a well-preserved Ottoman cityscape with characteristic white stone houses. The city is also historically very exciting: it is the birthplace of the former communist dictator Enver Hoxha as well as the famous writer Ismael Kadare. Just let yourself drift through the narrow streets and be fascinated by the views.
The centrepiece of the town is the 17th-century bazaar. In former times it was an important trading centre in the region, but today it is mainly a souvenir shops with family run restaurants.
Explore Skenduli House
Skenduli House is a jewel of Ottoman architecture with its ornate rooms, hidden chambers and hand-carved woodwork. Built in the 18th century, it still belongs to the Skenduli family today. The owner himself gave us a tour of his house and explained traditional life in times gone by in a mix Albanian and German.
Recommendation for your stay: 1 night
Our Hotel: Boutique Hotel Musée
Restaurants & Bars:
Read my Guide on the best restaurants in Gjirokaster and check out the best places to Stay in Gjirokaster.
From Gjirokaster, it is about 180 km to Berat by rental car (about 2 h 30 mins).
Mangalem & Gorica quarter and Bulevardi Republika
I found Berat, the town of 1,001 windows, enchanting. It located directly on the river and you have a beautiful view of the characteristic white houses with red tiled roofs built into the slopes of the river valley on both sides.
On the southern side of the Osum River is the Christian quarter of Gorica. Historically, it was inhabited predominantly by Orthodox Christians, who had their own churches and communities. On the northern side, the Muslim quarter of Mangalem extends along the hills on which Berat Castle is perched. Due to the Muslim inhabitants, there are many mosques here.
In the evening, head to the magnificent Bulevardi Republika – experience the xhiro (the evening stroll) up close and personal and simply watch the world go by around you.
Explore the castle district of Berat
High above Berat sits the fortified castle complex from the 13th century – a picturesque labyrinth of cobblestone streets, white stone houses and cosy cafes. Be sure to go all the way to the end, where there is a viewing platform overlooking the Gorica district. If you are in the mood for culture and want to learn more about the history of Berat: In the castle district, you will find the Ethnographic Museum and the Onufri Gallery. Special buildings are: the Holy Trinity Church (19th century Orthodox church), the Red and White Mosque (only ruins remain) and the well-preserved cistern (underground water reservoir).
Recommendation for your stay: 2 nights
Our Hotel: Villa Arben Elezi (in the middle of Mangalem, beautiful view from the terrace)
Restaurants:
Rent a car! Albania is very safe for motorists, & you can drive across the entire country in less than 6 hours! Best of all, rental cars are very cheap (starting at €30) & easy to book by comparing rates across dealerships in Tirana and Saranda using DiscoverCars.
Compare Rental DealsIf you have more time, you will be able to fill 2 weeks in Albania very well. We had decided to focus on the Albanian Riviera for our 9 days. If we had had more time, we would definitely have travelled to the Albanian Alps and Lake Ohrid in the east. I actually think that you are most likely to discover the ‘real’ Albania in these regions. I would have loved to see these places too:
Shkoder is located in the north of Albania and is the perfect starting point for trips to the Albanian Alps. The city itself is said to be very authentic and to provide a good insight into everyday life.
A ferry ride through the fjord landscape of Liqeni i Komanit (Koman Lake) is probably one of the most impressive things to do in Albania. The Drin River is dammed here between Koman and Fierze over 34 kilometres. It takes 2 1/2 hours to cross the gorge by ferry, which is barely more than 400 metres wide, where majestic mountain scenery and emerald-green water combine to create a captivating backdrop.
Theth is said to be a hidden gem in the Albanian Alps – even though it is now much easier to reach thanks to the tarmacked road that was completed in 2022. Inside the village itself, everything is still very traditional: pretty houses, small guesthouses, green gardens lined with wooden fences, goats and cows in the meadows. Surrounded by impressive mountain peaks and lush valleys, Theth is pure natural romance. You can find out more about Theth here. Hiking in the area: