Theth Albania – The Gate To The Albanian Alps

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A trip to Albania is not complete without visiting the village of Theth in the Albanian Alps. This is the perfect place to see the the untouched nature of this hiking region, also known as the Accursed Mountains. This region is not called the “Albanian Alps” for nothing, because here you can expect impressive high peaks and clear blue mountain water, idyllic stone houses and herds of sheep.

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In the north of Albania, not far from the border with Montenegro, are the Albanian Alps. The mountains are particularly popular with hikers and adventurers, but I would argue that the Albanian Alps are worthwhile for anyone with a taste for spectacular scenery.

This impressive mountain region is characterized by majestic peaks, rivers with crystal clear water, deep gorges and idyllic mountain villages. And one of these mountain villages is Theth. Theth is only inhabited by a few people all year round, but has become an increasingly popular tourist destination in the warmer months.

During my Albania round trip through the north and central Albania, I also ventured up into the Albanian Alps. I tell you what you can expect and things to do there:

The Albanian Alps – Prokletije

The Albanian Alps, also known as Prokletije or Bjeshkët e Nemuna, form the highest part of the Dinaric Alps and stretch across the northern part of Albania, the eastern part of Montenegro and the western part of Kosovo. Here you will find largely untouched nature, kilometers of hiking trails, beautiful national parks and you can get to know the authentic life of the Albanian miners.

The mountain village of Theth in the Albanian Alps

There are several small villages in this mountainous region, but Theth is probably the best known. The settlement has developed from a village that was considered almost extinct to a popular destination in Albania. Especially in recent years, when the Balkan country has become increasingly popular as a travel destination, tourism has also arrived in Theth. The village is located in the middle of a beautiful valley and is the ideal starting point for (day) hikes and other outdoor activities.

Theth is a scattered village located on a long gravel road next to a river. Along this road there are a few guest houses, guesthouses, campsites and a tiny supermarket. On the edge of the village is a church with a magnificent mountain panorama in the background!

The church of Theth (Kisha e Thethit)

The church is picturesquely situated against a wonderful mountain backdrop. With its traditional stone construction, gray tiled roof and large cross, it makes a great photo opportunity. The church was built in the 19th century (around 1892) and is still used by the Albanians for worship today.

The “lock-in tower” (Kulla e pajtimit)

Close to the church is the “Lock-in Tower”, also known as the “Blood Feud Tower” or “Tower of Reconciliation”. This tower was built a few hundred years ago and had a very special function, as it was used to settle disputes.

• Location: Reconciliation Tower (Kulla e pajtimit)

A little historical background is required: the Albanians in the north lived according to their own laws called “Kanun” for a long time. For example, there was the law of blood revenge, according to which one was allowed to take revenge eye for an eye. So if someone had committed murder, this person had to expect to be murdered by relatives of the victim. During the blood feud or feud, the murderers locked themselves in the towers.

Until either the feud was over (i.e. there was no longer a direct threat from the opposing family) or until a reconciliation was reached (often with the help of a council of elders). Today the tower is a museum and admission costs around 2 Euros.

Hikes in the Albanian Alps and the Theth National Park

First and foremost, you come to this region for one reason: to go hiking! From Theth, there are a variety of day hikes that you can either do yourself or with an organized tour.

Hike to the Blue Eye Theth

One of the most popular hikes in the Albanian Alps is the hike to the Blue Eye. Strictly speaking, there are two Blue Eyes in Albania – one in the north near Theth and the other in the south near Saranda.

You can either start the hike directly from Theth or save yourself part of the way and take a rental car or taxi/transfer to the small village of Nderlysaj and the Blue Eye Kaprre parking lot. We drove to Nderlysaj, partly because we were traveling with a baby. We paid LEK 300 for parking – we don’t know whether the person who collected the parking fee was authorized to do so. But we did the same as the other visitors and paid around 3 euros. There is also a restaurant near the parking lot.

From there, it’s over hill and dale to the Blue Eye. The views that you are offered again and again along the way are simply breathtaking! The mountains, the gorges and rivers, the forests and, at the end of the hike, this incredibly beautiful spot with the azure blue water – simply beautiful. Once you get there, you’ll understand where the “Blue Eye” got its name from.

By the way: swimming is allowed there, but the water is really cold! The hike from Nderlysaj takes around 45-60 minutes each way. We also saw families with smaller children along the way. Basically, the hike is also possible for children, you just have to be careful where you step in some places.

Grunas Waterfall

The Grunas waterfall is a small oasis about 45-60 minutes’ walk from Theth. The hike there is therefore not particularly long and quite relaxed. You follow the village road downstream for about 30 minutes and then turn left. The hiking trail runs alongside the river before heading up into the forest.

As is so often the case in the Albanian Alps, there are wonderful views of the mountain peaks along the way. As with the Blue Eye, swimming is permitted at the Grunas waterfall. Provided that you dare to go in due to the icy temperatures.

Hike Theth – Valbona

In addition to Theth, Valbona is also one of the idyllic villages in the Albanian Alps. And there is a hike that connects the two villages: the Valbona-Theth hike or the Valbona Pass. The hike leads through the mountains, past forests, meadows and small streams.

To get to Valbona, you have to walk about 17 kilometers and it takes 6-8 hours (depending on how fast you are and how good your physical condition is). There are a few ascents and descents during the hike, which is why the Valbona Pass is of medium difficulty and suitable for people in good physical condition.
Of course, the hike can also be done in reverse, i.e. from Valbona to Theth.

Hiking the ‘Peaks of the Balkans’

“Peaks of the Balkans is a 192-kilometre long-distance hiking trail that connects the countries of Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro. There is not a single route, but rather various hiking trails to choose from. Overall, however, it is a circular hiking trail.

If you want to hike the entire route, you should be an experienced hiker, as there are stages with challenging ascents and descents.

Shtëgu i Dhënve

The “goat footbridge” (approx. 1900 m) is the crossing into the valley of Boga. This is the historic pass road to Theth. From Theth, it is a steep ascent of over 1000 meters in altitude, which becomes even steeper and steeper in the last part.

From the western side, the pass is less steep, but the path is somewhat longer. The pass offers a good view of the Shala Valley. On the western side, a small spring is hidden a little way downhill. From the pass to the south, you soon reach the pass road.

Peja Pass

This tour over the “Qafa e Pejës” (1710 m) is probably the most strenuous and exciting. The Peja Pass is the entrance to the “Bjeshkët e Namuna” and usually only the starting point for further excursions, often lasting several days: to Kelmend, Jezerca, Arapi, around Arapi or through the Runicatal to Montenegro.
The ascent to the pass is super steep: the path leads from Okol up the steep rock face at the end of the valley in many hairpin bends. The Runica Valley beyond the pass is extremely arid – barren highlands. All tours over the pass, especially those lasting several days, require good preparation and the best equipment.

Tips for Theth in the Albanian Alps

How to get there

There is only one road that leads up to Theth and that is from Shkodra. The route is about 76 kilometers long, but it still takes about 2 hours by car. This is not due to the condition of the road – it is now completely asphalted – but to the rather winding and sometimes narrow route. The drive is beautiful, passing through small villages, meadows and fields and the higher you wind your way up the mountain, the more breathtaking the views become!

Travel Tip: If you’re driving to Theth yourself, it’s best to fill up your tank in Shkodra. There is no petrol station in Theth.

The pass is sometimes closed from November to April due to snow – it can snow heavily in the mountains and there is also a risk of avalanches from the slopes. Attempts are made to keep the road open for as long as possible. However, it is to be expected that you will be snowed in in the valley.

It remains to be seen how the new, fully asphalted road will affect the situation in Theth. Plenty of traffic on the narrow road and possible obstructions due to construction work cannot be ruled out.

The “southern route” from the central Shala Valley through the Kir Valley is only suitable for experienced off-road drivers with good 4×4 vehicles. The pass is not so high, but the road is in very poor condition, which is why it stretches endlessly. Only the last few kilometers through the Kir Valley are asphalted.
Minibuses (Furgons) run from Shkodra to Theth, usually early in the morning. The transfer costs about 1200 Lek one way (~ 12 EUR).

Accommodation

There are numerous guesthouses in Theth to suit all budgets. These are family-run and usually offer breakfast as well as dinner.

Travel Tip: During the high season in summer, I would recommend booking your accommodation as early as possible, as the best guesthouses get booked up quickly. When booking, also pay attention to where the guesthouse is located. Some accommodations are very cheap, but are quite far away from Theth.

During our stay in Theth, we stayed at the Shpella Guesthouse. It has the typical traditional architecture, is very well located (close to the church and the tower) and has its own restaurant in the house. The food was always delicious and the hosts were very friendly.

Guest Houses in Theth:

• Villa Gjeçaj Folk & Design
• Bujtina Tinari Theth
• Gurra Family Guesthouse

Best time to travel

It is generally cooler in the Albanian Alps than on the Albanian coast. The summer months are therefore the most popular time to visit. But spring and fall are also good times to visit. We were in Theth in September and it was still well over 20 degrees Celsius.

Money and currency

The currency in Albania is the LEK. You should have cash with you for your stay in the Albanian Alps and also in Theth. It is now also possible to pay by credit card in some guesthouses, but I wouldn’t always rely on this. If in doubt, it’s best to ask in advance and have a few LEK with you.

How long should you stay in Theth?

I recommend staying in Theth for 2 to 3 days. This leaves you 1 to 2 full days to explore Theth and the beautiful Albanian Alps in addition to the arrival and departure days.

For us, Theth was definitely a major highlight of our Albania round trip. If I were asked which place in Albania you shouldn’t miss, Theth would definitely be my answer. We would have loved to stay there a little longer.

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