Pogradec is a small town at the southern end of Lake Ohrid in Albania. The lake is nestled in a beautiful mountain landscape and attracts many visitors in summer.
By Dirk Pohlers, adventure traveler from Germany. I visit every place I write about & share real tips, photos, & advice from my trips.
Pogradec is rather smal and I think this is precisely why it has retained its original, idyllic charm. There are still no tourist crowds to be found in Pogradec. If you want to spend a relaxing holiday enjoying walks by the lake, you’ve come to the right place. In contrast to the village of the same name, Ohrid, which lies on the other side of the lake, Pogradec is more tranquil and unspoilt.
At the same time, Pogradec boasts a fascinating history and a wealth of cultural attractions. Attractions are numerous in here, starting from the old town known for its Ottoman and Balkan architecture, the 2400-year-old castle with its unique charm, the royal tombs of Selca as well as the settlements of Lin.
In a groundbreaking discovery that has once and for all changed the tourist prospects of the village of Lin, foreign archaeologists have declared the settlement of Lin the oldest in Europe, over 8,500 years. Meanwhile, four kilometers east of Pogradec you can find the tourist attraction of Drilon with its springs, where nature has not spared beauty.
Just 130 kilometres separate Pogradec from the capital Tirana. Nevertheless, time seems to have stood still in this part of Albania.
Pogradec in Albania is beautiful all year round, but the best time to visit is from May to September. The summers are not too hot here, but perfectly warm enough to enjoy the beach by the lake.
There are many accommodation options in Pogradec to choose from, either by the lake or in the city. Let’s have a look at some of them:
Hotel Pogradeci
Located directly on the promenade by the lake, Hotel Pogradeci is a great 4-star hotel that guarantees you a great stay. Each room is air-conditioned, modernly furnished and has a balcony from which you have a great view of the lake and the beach. There is a restaurant on the ground floor that serves both international dishes and traditional Albanian food. A night here costs around €45.
Hotel Enkelana
One of the better hotels in Pogradec, Hotel Enkelana, has been welcoming guests for many years. It is one of the first hotels in the city and thus the starting point of Pogradec tourism. The rooms are beautiful and in good condition and a delicious breakfast is served every morning. There is also a private beach and a restaurant serving delicious food. The location of the hotel is great, as it is right in the city centre and just a few steps from the beach. A night at this hotel costs around €50.
In July and August, Pogradec is one of the most popular places in Albania, as tourists from all over Albania come here. The town has a rich history and culture, starting with the mosaics of Lin, which date back to the 6th century BC, and the castle of Pogradec located on the hill above.
Pogradec’s attractions are largely limited to the beautiful Lake Ohrid. In addition to swimming during the warmer months, the promenade is ideal for long walks. If you are looking for a party holiday, you are in the wrong place in Pogradec.
When I visited at the end of October, the tourist season had come to an end. Apart from a few fishermen, there wasn’t much going on around the lake. Even though I’m not a lake person and prefer the sea, I really enjoyed the tranquillity.
The relatively fine sand also caught my eye. Even if the sand is understandably darker than in the Caribbean, it was at least finer than in many places on the Albanian Riviera.
Another thing you can do in Pogradec is cycling. You’ll find bikes for hire all along the promenade. Grab a bike and cycle along the lake and admire the breathtaking views and scenery that accompany you on your tour. You can even cycle all the way to Sveti Naum, a small village just over the Macedonian border. Many cycle paths have been built in recent years, so you can have a safe and enjoyable ride.
To be fair: There is no real castle, just a few ruins on the hill, but there are breathtaking views to enjoy and it’s definitely worth it. Pogradec has a long and distinguished history, and it all started with this one castle.
Pogradec was an important settlement in ancient times, inhabited by the tribes of Illyria, Enkelej and Desaret.
The castle itself had been inhabited since the fifth century BC and was surrounded by defensive walls. In the second century BC, it was tragically destroyed by a great fire that was the result of a battle between opposing armies.
The picturesque village of Tushemisht is located just five kilometres east of Pogradec, also on the shores of Lake Ohrid. The village is popular for its numerous springs, small canals and ponds.
Tushemisht is also home to well-preserved traditional houses, some of which have red tiled roofs. During the summer months, holidaymakers enjoy the clean bathing water or the peaceful atmosphere by the lake.
The emergence of tourism in Tushemisht has given rise to a number of private accommodations, hotels, beach bars and restaurants. The local cuisine specialises in fish dishes fresh from Lake Ohrid.
The border with North Macedonia is only a stone’s throw from Tushemisht. If you want, you can easily walk the two kilometres.
When many residents and visitors think of Pogradec, Drilon probably comes to their minds. This fantastic park is one of the most visited places in town. You can admire the beautiful nature, eat in one of the restaurants in the park or take a boat trip on the lake.
Many cute ducks and swans, deer and peacocks live around the park. Even in winter, when the whole park is covered in a white coat, it is impressive.
There are also several paths that are suitable for walking or cycling. As well as being able to organise your own picnic, you can also sample the local cuisine in restaurants and cafés.
Sveti Naum (Shën Naum in Albanian) is a monastery built by Saint Naum at the end of the 9th century and is located around 12 kilometres from Pogradec right behind the Macedonian border. The monastery complex is located on the shores of Lake Ohrid and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site along with the town of Ohrid since 1979. At the foot of the monastery hill there is a spring area of Lake Ohrid. The park-like area can be crossed and viewed by boat. The Galicica National Park is located above Sveti Naum, between Lake Ohrid and Lake Prespa to the east.
Due to its historical significance and the beautiful surroundings, Sveti Naum is now one of the most popular tourist destinations in North Macedonia.
The charming little village of Lin goes unnoticed by many visitors. It lies at the foot of the Qafë Thanë mountain pass on a small peninsula directly on the shore of the lake.
If you drive down the national road to Pogradec into the valley of the lake, you will see the village of Lin below on your left. This small peninsula nestles gently on the shores of Lake Ohrid. It used to be called the ‘Lake of Light’, perhaps because the light of the sun and moon illuminates its surface all year round. Indeed, the reflections in this lake are legendary!
Hundreds of locals live on this small but beautiful peninsula. As you drive down the road to get there, you will notice the beautiful red roofs of the characteristic little houses. Here you will find one of the oldest mosaics in Eastern Europe, dating back to the 4th century.
There is also a bunker at the end of the peninsula. While it used to be a point of defence, it was later converted into a religious site. Today, the interior is decorated with Christian artefacts.
You can’t enjoy your holiday in Albania without good food, and Pogradec has it all. You can choose between the best restaurants in Pogradec or in the nearby village of Tushemisht for one of the best meals you’ve ever tasted.
The Ohrid trout is the star of Ohrid’s fish scene. It’s loved for its tender feel and tasty flavors. This fish is a top pick for locals and visitors. If you love seafood or just enjoy trying new foods, tasting the best Ohrid trout meals is a must.
Some options are ‘Rosa e Tymosur’ if you want to try traditional dishes with a pinch of modern flavour; ‘The Change’ if you fancy sushi or other international meat dishes; or ‘Bujtina Ollga’ for an authentic meal of traditional Albanian cuisine, with byrek, qofte, fёrgesё and all that good stuff.